Author: Shaeel Iqbal

Shogran or Naran? Which One to Pick After 4 Visits (Crowds, Hotels, Food, Weather)

Shogran: first week of October in 2023, 2024 and 2025, and May 2026 · Naran: several visits, most recently May 2026 · Last checked: October 2026

Shogran and Naran are both in the Kaghan side of the mountains, only a drive apart, and most people pick one without knowing much about the other. I have been to Shogran four times and to Naran several times, most recently in May 2026. I prefer Shogran, and this post explains why, who should choose which, and what each costs.

If you like your own company and not crowds, read the Shogran section first. If you want a base for the Babusar road, Batakundi and Lulusar Lake, Naran makes more sense.

Shogran vs Naran at a glance

	Shogran	Naran
Crowds	Quiet and peaceful	Much more crowded in general (empty when I went in May 2026, early in the season)
Best month	October	October for peace, or April and May to escape the heat of the plains
Getting there	About 6 hours from Islamabad. The road from Kiwai is fully developed	On the main highway. About 12 hours from Faisalabad
Hotels, per night	Local hotels PKR 5,000 to 8,000. Spruce PKR 27,000. Cedarwood PKR 24,500 (May 2026)	Luxus PKR 14,000 (usual PKR 17,500) in May 2026
Meal for two with tea	PKR 6,000 to 8,000 at Cedarwood	About PKR 4,000
Things to do	Siri and Paye, Makra Peak, the small bazaar, tea at Cedarwood	Saif-ul-Malook, and the road to Batakundi, Lulusar Lake and Babusar Top
Air	Clean air, less pollution	Not noted

If you want quiet, choose Shogran

If you are an introvert, you will love the peaceful environment in Shogran. Naran is much more crowded. In my experience, Shogran has less crowd, cleaner air and less pollution, and most of the time you enjoy your own company at your hotel with your friends or family.

I travel in October because the rates are usually lower than in May, June and July, and there is no crowd. My friends and I like quiet places, and Shogran in the first week of October is exactly that.

One honest note: Naran was almost empty when I went in May 2026, early in the season. But in general it is far busier than Shogran, especially from April to September.

If you want the Babusar road, choose Naran

Naran is the better base if you want to drive towards Babusar Top. From Naran it is about 70 km and 2 to 3 hours to the top. It is also the gateway to Batakundi and Lulusar Lake. I think the drive from Naran to Babusar Top is the best part of that side of the mountains. The top itself is only for tea, pakoras and a view.

Saif-ul-Malook is also near Naran. I have only been once, and I do not like this lake, because it is easy for everyone to get to. A jeep with a driver costs about PKR 5,000 today.

Cost: where your money goes further

Hotels. Shogran has cheap local hotels at PKR 5,000 to 8,000 a night. The two well-known hotels, Spruce and Cedarwood, cost PKR 27,000 and PKR 24,500 in May 2026. In Naran, Luxus cost me PKR 14,000 against its usual PKR 17,500.
Food. A meal for two with tea is about PKR 4,000 in Naran, against PKR 6,000 to 8,000 at Cedarwood in Shogran.
Activities. The jeep to Siri and Paye costs about PKR 6,000. A jeep to Saif-ul-Malook costs about PKR 5,000.

Weather and the best months

October is the best month for the weather in both places, and the nights are colder. April and May are good if you want to escape the summer heat of cities like Faisalabad and Lahore. Always carry a jacket.

I would avoid Murree and Nathia Gali if you want quiet. In my opinion they are too crowded.

Which one should you pick?

You like quiet and your own company: Shogran, in October.
You are going with family: Shogran has a calm setting, and Cedarwood is a good choice for families.
You are driving on towards Babusar, Batakundi or Lulusar: Naran.
You are on a tight budget: Naran for meals and a local hotel in Shogran for rooms.
You want a bonfire night with friends: Spruce or Pine Park in Shogran.

Quick answers

Is Shogran quieter than Naran? Yes, much quieter in general.
Which is cheaper? Naran for food. Shogran for rooms if you choose a local hotel.
Which is better in October? Shogran. It has the best weather and the fewest people.
Do I need a jeep for Shogran? No. The road from Kiwai is fully developed.

This comparison is based on my own visits. Prices and crowds change, so please check before you travel and read my disclaimer. If you visited recently and something is different, tell me on the contact page.

October 21, 2026

Hunza in 2017 vs 2026: What Changed in Prices, Roads and Crowds

Visited: 2017 and 2021 · 2026 details: from my brother’s trip · Last checked: October 2026

I have been to Hunza twice: in 2017 and in 2021. I did not go in 2026, but my brother did, and he told me about the prices, the roads and the crowds. This post compares what I saw on my trips with what he found in 2026.

If you are planning a trip this year, this is what I would want to know before going. All prices are approximate and in PKR. Where a detail comes from my brother’s 2026 trip, I say so.

Hunza at a glance: then and now

What	Then	Now (2026)
Budget room, per night	About PKR 4,000 (2017)	About PKR 8,000 for friends travelling without family, up to about PKR 45,000
One restaurant meal, per person	I did not note it	About PKR 1,000, with a full meal and tea
Road from Naran towards Babusar	Very rough (around 2020)	Fully developed and clean
Crowds	Quieter	Busier every summer, very crowded in June, July and August
Access and things to see	Fewer attractions, harder access	Easy access, many attractions, easy for families
Places to stay	Fewer options	Many more hotels, plus Airbnb options in Karimabad

The 2026 hotel, food and crowd details come from my brother’s trip.

What changed between 2017 and 2021

My second trip, in 2021, felt different from the first. There were more hotels and more places to stay, and the roads were the biggest change.

More hotels and accommodation options. There was much more to choose from than in 2017.
Better roads. I took the Babusar route in 2021, and the road was fully developed and clean. I did not notice any patches.

The next big changes came between 2021 and 2026: much higher hotel prices and much bigger summer crowds, according to my brother.

Getting there: about 650 km from Islamabad

It is about 650 km one way from Islamabad to Hunza, or to the Khunjerab Pass. That is a long drive, so plan your days around it.

Travelling in your own vehicle still costs less than hired transport, and it gives you freedom. You can stop where you like, and you can stay a night on the way if you want, because you are not bound to a transport company’s schedule.

What a 7-day group trip cost me in 2021

In 2021 I went with friends in a rented Toyota Hiace with a driver. We were a group of 10 and the trip lasted 7 days, covering Hunza and Fairy Meadows.

Counting everything (the vehicle rental, fuel, meals and everything else we spent), the total came to about PKR 24,000 per person. For the whole group, that was roughly PKR 240,000.

Sharing one vehicle and its fuel between 10 people keeps the cost per person low. Hotel prices have gone up a lot since then, so expect a higher total today.

The roads: much better than before

Around 2020, the road from Naran towards Babusar was very rough. When I took the Babusar route in 2021, it was fully developed and clean, with no patches, and it is still fully developed today. The drive is far more comfortable than it used to be.

You may still see construction in the Gilgit part, where the Diamer-Bhasha Dam is being built.

Where to stay: from about PKR 8,000 to PKR 45,000 a night

In 2017, a budget room in Hunza cost me around PKR 4,000 a night. My brother says the range in 2026 is much wider. There has been a lot of hotel development, so you can pick a hotel by your budget and the standard you want, and prices now go up to about PKR 45,000 a night.

If you are travelling with friends and not with family, you can still find a hotel for around PKR 8,000 a night. If you are travelling with family, you will probably want a higher standard, which costs more.

I do not remember hotel names from my own trips. I just visit a few hotels and choose the one with better amenities or a better rate, so I cannot recommend a specific name. What I can tell you is where to look: there are some good Airbnb options in Karimabad, and if you are heading to Khunjerab Pass you can stay around the Sost border area before it.

Food: about PKR 1,000 per person per meal

My brother says a normal restaurant meal in 2026 costs about PKR 1,000 per person. That includes a full meal and tea, and it is more than enough for one person. If you eat three meals a day, plan for about PKR 3,000 per person per day on food.

Crowds: busier every summer

From what I saw in 2017 and 2021, and from what my brother saw in 2026, Hunza gets busier every year. People travel mostly between April and September. Many are now bored of the older tourist spots like Naran and Shogran, so they head further north to Hunza instead.

April and May: no rush. This is the best time if you like it quiet.
June, July and August: too crowded. This is the biggest change for the worse.

The surprise: the route closes by mid-October

Babusar Top closes every year after 15 October, so by mid-October you cannot travel to Hunza via Babusar or Chilas. Snowfall covers the roads fully, and you have to go through Besham instead.

My brother found the road on the Besham side still in bad condition, and the weather around Besham, Chilas and Jaglot dry and hot. If you are travelling in autumn, check the road situation before you leave.

Babusar Top usually reopens around the start or the end of May, depending on the weather. In May 2026 it was still closed by snow when I drove up from Naran, so check before you go.

What got better, and what got worse

Better:

The road from Naran towards Babusar is fully developed.
Access is easy and there are many more attractions.
Families can travel easily and find good spots.
April and May are calm.

Worse:

Hotel prices are much higher than in 2017.
June, July and August are very crowded.
The Besham route is still in bad condition when Babusar closes.

What not to miss

If you only have time for a few things, these are the ones I would not skip:

The Karakoram Highway: the drive itself is part of the trip.
Attabad Lake
Hussaini Bridge
Eagle’s Nest: go at dawn or dusk.

Khunjerab Pass: read this before you go

I went to the Khunjerab border on my first visit to Hunza in 2017. The oxygen level at Khunjerab Pass is low, and you can only stay there for about 10 to 15 minutes at most.

If you have asthma, do not go there. The change in air pressure can also give you a headache, so keep paracetamol with you.

I am not a doctor. If you have any medical condition, talk to your doctor before you plan this part of the trip.

How I would plan Hunza in 2026

Pick your month. April or May for quiet. June to August only if you do not mind the crowds. Do not leave it until mid-October.
Choose your vehicle. Your own vehicle costs less and lets you stop when you want.
Set a hotel budget. Around PKR 8,000 a night for friends travelling together, and more if you want a higher standard or are travelling with family.
Budget for food. About PKR 1,000 per person per meal.
Check the route. Know whether Babusar is open before you leave.
Prepare for Khunjerab. Keep paracetamol with you, plan for only 10 to 15 minutes at the top, and skip it if you have asthma.

Is Hunza worth visiting in 2026?

Yes. If you have not been to Hunza, you should go once in your life. There is more than Murree and Naran ahead. Enjoy the Karakoram Highway, Attabad Lake and Hussaini Bridge, and make time for Eagle’s Nest at dawn or dusk.

These figures are approximate. They are based on my trips to Hunza in 2017 and 2021, and on my brother’s 2026 trip. Prices and road conditions change, so please check before you travel and read my disclaimer. If you went recently and something is different, tell me on the contact page.

October 21, 2026

What Food Costs in Shogran, Naran, Lulusar and Fairy Meadows (2026 Prices)

Eaten here: 2021 to 2026 · Prices checked: October 2026

Food is one of the biggest surprises on a northern Pakistan trip, because prices change a lot from one place to the next. A breakfast can come with the room in one town, and a roti can cost PKR 150 in another. These are the prices I paid or was told in 2026, from Shogran to Fairy Meadows, along with the places I would go back to.

Food prices at a glance

Place	What	Price (2026)
Cedarwood, Shogran	A proper meal with tea for two	PKR 6,000 to 8,000 (plus PKR 1,000 per person if you are not a guest)
Naran	A proper meal with tea for two	About PKR 4,000
Fairy Meadows	BBQ leg or chest piece	PKR 2,000 a piece (about PKR 1,000 in 2021)
Fairy Meadows	One roti	PKR 150
Beyal Camp	Cooked noodles	PKR 500
Hunza (from my brother)	A restaurant meal with tea, per person	About PKR 1,000

Prices vary, and at Fairy Meadows they change almost every day. Treat these as a guide.

Shogran

Breakfast comes with the room at both Spruce and Cedarwood. It is a buffet with fresh juices, toast, eggs made live the way you like, and paratha, puri, channay and halwa. You can ask for a fresh paratha.

For dinner I go to Cedarwood, even when I am staying at Spruce. Spruce has its own kitchen, but the Cedarwood restaurant has breathtaking views. One afternoon at about 3 PM I ordered a sauce pasta and some sandwiches to my room, since they offer room service. That night I went to their dine-in area and ordered chicken karahi with roti and naan, a plate of biryani, and a half bowl of hot and sour soup, because it was raining and cold.

A proper meal with tea for two costs about PKR 6,000 to 8,000 at Cedarwood. It is expensive, but worth it once. If you are not staying there, they charge PKR 1,000 per person extra to visit, and you can also go in the evening just for tea.

The small Shogran bazaar has local eateries with fast food, desi food, coffee and fries. At Siri and Paye you can have breakfast at any of the spots there, such as paratha, egg, daal and roti.

Naran

For desi food, I recommend Moon Restaurant and New Punjab Hotel. A proper meal for two people with tea costs about PKR 4,000, which is much less than dinner at Cedarwood.

Burawai and Lulusar Lake

The Adventurers Resort and Restaurant is in Burawai, right after Batakundi, on the way to Lulusar Lake. It is expensive. I had coffee and fries there, and I have stopped there many times. I do not remember the exact prices, but you can check their menu on their Google Maps listing.

The restaurant at Lulusar Lake has a lake view, and toilets are available. It serves breakfast and lunch, and I am not sure whether it opens at night. For breakfast you can get eggs in different styles with paratha or roti. For lunch or dinner you can get chicken karahi, daal varieties and sabzi, served with roti.

Fairy Meadows and Beyal Camp

At Fairy Meadows you can get daal, sabzi and even BBQ, but you have to tell them a day before. A BBQ leg or chest piece costs PKR 2,000 a piece today, and it was about PKR 1,000 in 2021. A single roti costs PKR 150. Prices vary almost every day now.

At Beyal Camp there is a small canteen. Cooked noodles cost PKR 500 today, and they also sell chips like Lay’s and biscuits.

Hunza

My brother tells me that a normal restaurant meal in Hunza in 2026 costs about PKR 1,000 per person, with a full meal and tea included. He says that is more than enough for one person.

My tips for eating well and not overspending

Order BBQ a day ahead at Fairy Meadows. They need to know the day before.
Splurge once at Cedarwood. The views and the dinner are worth the price. Eat the rest of your meals in Naran-style restaurants, where a meal for two is about PKR 4,000.
Take breakfast at the hotel. It is included in the room price at the hotels where I stayed, so you do not pay for it twice.
Carry cash. There are no ATMs or banks in Shogran, and most places in the mountains work better with cash.
Do not shop at the Shogran bazaar unless you really need something. It is better for tea, coffee and fries in the evening.

Quick answers

How much is a meal for two in Naran? About PKR 4,000, with tea.
How much is dinner at Cedarwood? PKR 6,000 to 8,000 for two, plus PKR 1,000 per person if you are not a guest.
Do I need to order food in advance at Fairy Meadows? For BBQ, yes. Tell them a day before.
Is there food at Beyal Camp? Yes, a small canteen with noodles at PKR 500, chips and biscuits.

These prices are approximate and come from my own visits and, where I say so, from my brother. Prices change, so please check before you travel and read my disclaimer. If you ate there recently and prices are different, tell me on the contact page.

October 20, 2026

Spruce vs Cedarwood vs Luxus Naran: My Honest Hotel Review (Prices, Rooms, Food)

Stayed: May 2026 · Last checked: October 2026

In May 2026 I stayed at two hotels in Shogran, Spruce and Cedarwood, and at Luxus in Naran. Booking pages show you photos and a price, but not the things that decide a stay: hot water, heating, breakfast, balconies and staff. This is my honest review of all three.

Disclosure: I paid for all three stays. At Luxus Naran I asked for a discount and told them I would review the hotel, so I paid PKR 14,000 a night instead of the usual PKR 17,500. Spruce and Cedarwood gave me no discount.

The three hotels at a glance

	Spruce (Shogran)	Cedarwood (Shogran)	Luxus (Naran)
Price per night, May 2026	PKR 27,000 (deluxe room)	PKR 24,500	PKR 14,000 (usual PKR 17,500)
Breakfast	Complimentary buffet	Complimentary buffet	Complimentary, same menu
Balcony and view	Own attached balcony for each room	Shared balcony, view of the hotel lawn	Second-floor room with its own balcony and a mountain view
Hot water	24 hours	24 hours	Warm, not very hot
Room heating	None. Extra cost if you want it	None. Extra cost if you want it	I did not check
Wi-Fi	24 hours	24 hours	I did not check
Parking	Yes, with guards at night	Yes, with guards at night	Yes
What I would improve	Staff uniforms and guidance on serving guests	Old furniture and a dated interior	Water temperature

The prices are what I paid early in the season, in May 2026. Rates are higher in the peak months.

Spruce, Shogran

Spruce is the hotel I recommend in Shogran. The rooms are modern, and every room has its own attached balcony, so you get the view without sharing it. A deluxe room cost me PKR 27,000 a night.

The one thing I would improve is the staff. They need proper uniforms and some guidance on how to serve and talk to guests. The rooms and the views are the strong points.

If you are going with friends, Spruce is the better choice. You can enjoy a bonfire at night, which is part of why a group trip here is so enjoyable.

Cedarwood, Shogran

Cedarwood cost PKR 24,500 a night. The rooms feel outdated, with old furniture, and there is no separate balcony. You share one, and it looks over the hotel lawn, which is still worth a look. That is what I would tell them to improve first.

I would take Cedarwood for a family trip, and Spruce for friends. The food is where Cedarwood shines. The restaurant has breathtaking views, and they offer room service.

One afternoon at about 3 PM I ordered a sauce pasta and some sandwiches to my room. At night I went to their dine-in area and ordered chicken karahi with roti and naan, a plate of biryani, and a half bowl of hot and sour soup, because it was raining and cold. The cool wind made it one of the most memorable nights of the trip.

If you are not staying at Cedarwood, they charge PKR 1,000 per person extra to visit. A proper meal with tea for two costs about PKR 6,000 to 8,000. It is expensive, but worth it.

Luxus, Naran

Luxus is a new hotel in Naran, and it was my favourite stay of the trip. My room was on the second floor, with its own balcony and a mountain view.

Breakfast was complimentary, with the same menu as Spruce and Cedarwood. The dining area was better and cleaner than the one at Spruce, in my opinion. Parking is proper, and the staff were cooperative.

I paid PKR 14,000 a night for 2 nights, against the usual PKR 17,500 for a normal room. The hotel was new, the season was just starting, and Naran was empty, so there was room to ask. As I said above, I asked for the discount and told them I would review the hotel.

The only thing I would improve is the hot water. It is not very hot, because they adjust the water temperature in each room to a standard warm. If you want a hot shower, ask the staff before you shower, or check the water temperature first.

What all three have in common

Breakfast. All three include a buffet in the room price. You get fresh juices, toast, eggs made live the way you like, and paratha, puri, channay and halwa. You can ask for a fresh paratha.
No room heating at Spruce or Cedarwood. You pay extra if you want it.
Wi-Fi. The Shogran hotels have Wi-Fi 24 hours, but keep your 4G ready in case the hotel internet is slow.
Parking and security. There is proper parking, and at Spruce and Cedarwood guards look after the vehicles at night.

Which one should you choose?

Friends: Spruce. Pine Park is the other hotel in Shogran I would recommend for a group, but this review covers only the hotels where I stayed.
Family: Cedarwood, for the lawn, the restaurant and the quieter setting.
Best value: Luxus Naran, especially early in the season.
Tight budget: a local hotel in Shogran costs about PKR 5,000 to 8,000 a night. You can bargain, but only by about PKR 500.

Quick answers

Which hotel in Shogran has the best views? Spruce, because every room has its own attached balcony.
Is breakfast included? Yes, at all three.
Is there heating in the rooms? Not at Spruce or Cedarwood. You pay extra.
Is there hot water? 24 hours at Spruce and Cedarwood. At Luxus it is only warm, so ask first.

These details are from my stays in May 2026. Prices and facilities change, so please check with the hotel before you book and read my disclaimer. If you stayed recently and something is different, tell me on the contact page.

October 20, 2026

Faisalabad to Naran and Shogran by Road: Route, Tolls, Rest Stops and Timing
Drove it: May 2026 (own car, daytime) and 2021 (rented Hiace, to Chilas) · Last checked: October 2026
Almost every route guide to northern Pakistan starts from Islamabad. If you live in Faisalabad or Lahore, you have to reach Islamabad first, and that is where many people lose time. I drove from Faisalabad to Naran and Shogran in May 2026, and in 2021 I drove all the way from Faisalabad to Chilas. This is the route, the tolls, the rest stops and the timing that worked for me.
Tolls, prices and travel times change, so please check before you go. I say where a figure comes from my own trip and where it comes from a guide or a news report.
The route at a glance
1. Faisalabad to Islamabad, through the Islamabad toll.
2. M-1 towards Hassan Abdal (you join the M-1 after the M-2), through the Hassan Abdal interchange toll.
3. M-15 (Hazara Motorway) to the Mansehra interchange.
4. Stay on the M-15 to New Balakot City.
5. Local roads from there to Naran or Shogran.
From Faisalabad to Naran or Shogran you need about 12 hours. From Islamabad to Shogran it takes about 6 hours.
Distances from travel guides, not from my odometer: Islamabad to New Balakot is about 175 km, New Balakot to Naran is about 106 km, and Naran to Babusar Top is about 70 km.
Tolls
The tolls I paid were the Islamabad toll and the Hassan Abdal interchange toll. After the Mansehra interchange you are on local roads, with no more tolls.
Toll rates change often. News reports said that from July 2026 a car pays about PKR 1,430 for the full Lahore to Islamabad M-2 and PKR 700 on the M-1. What you pay depends on where you join and leave. I could not find a current M-15 rate, so check the latest rates before you leave. Sources: Profit and ProPakistani.
Where to stop
If you are driving from Faisalabad or Lahore, make your first stop at the Bhera rest area. Skip Islamabad, and stop next at the Mansehra rest area.
At Mansehra, skip the city. Keep going on the M-15 until you reach New Balakot City. From there you can take the city route, which avoids the traffic in Mansehra city. New Balakot is a newer shortcut, and in my experience few people know about it.
Balakot city is a good place for a break. There are restaurants all the way where you can get a proper meal for breakfast, lunch or dinner, depending on your travel time.
Fuel stops
- Bhera rest area
- Chakri
- Islamabad
- Mansehra interchange
- Balakot city
- Naran
- Gilgit, along the Karakoram Highway, if you go further north
In May 2026 petrol was about PKR 414 a litre. I spent about PKR 35,000 on fuel for the whole trip, from Faisalabad to every place we visited.
When to leave
If you are travelling with family, especially with kids, avoid driving at night. I went with my wife and drove in the daytime the whole way.
If you are going with friends, leave around 1 AM and you will be at your destination by about 12 PM.
Nothing went wrong on my 2026 trip. My Toyota Vitz, a small Japanese car, handled the whole route without trouble.
Mobile signal on this route
- Shogran: full 4G. The hotel Wi-Fi is on 24 hours, but keep your 4G ready in case the Wi-Fi is slow.
- Siri and Paye: no cellular service.
- Batakundi and beyond: no network until you reach Chilas or Jaglot.
- Fairy Meadows: no cellular service. There is a paid wireless PCO that works for about 2 to 3 hours in the evening. Ask your hotel about it.
- Hunza: on my trips in 2017 and 2021, only SCOM worked. Coverage changes, so check before you go.
In 2021 we drove further: Faisalabad to Chilas in 23 hours
In 2021 my group went from Faisalabad to Islamabad, then took the Hazara Motorway to Mansehra, then Mansehra to Naran, Naran over Babusar to Chilas, and from Chilas on to Fairy Meadows. We drove from Faisalabad to Chilas in about 23 hours of driving, in a rented Hiace. I do not recommend doing that in one go.
Quick answers
- How long from Faisalabad to Naran or Shogran? About 12 hours.
- Which tolls? Islamabad and Hassan Abdal, then the M-15 to Mansehra. Check the current rates.
- Where should I stop? The Bhera rest area first, then the Mansehra rest area, then Balakot.
- When should I leave? In the daytime with family. Around 1 AM with friends.
- Is a small car enough? Yes. My Toyota Vitz had no trouble.
Related: My May 2026 trip to Shogran and Naran · What a northern Pakistan trip costs · Shogran travel guide
These figures are approximate and based on my own drives in 2021 and May 2026. Tolls and conditions change, so please check before you travel and read my disclaimer. If you drove it recently and something is different, tell me on the contact page.
October 20, 2026

How Much Does a Northern Pakistan Trip Cost? 10 Friends in 2021 vs a Couple in 2026

Trips: August 2021 (Hunza and Fairy Meadows) and May 2026 (Shogran and Naran) · Last checked: October 2026

I have done two very different northern Pakistan trips. In August 2021 I went to Hunza and Fairy Meadows for 7 days with friends, a group of 10. In May 2026 I went to Shogran and Naran for 7 nights with my wife. They cost very different amounts, and the gap shows how much has changed. This post puts the real numbers side by side.

All figures are approximate and in PKR. I did not keep receipts, so I do not have a category-by-category split for either trip. Where a number is my own estimate, I say so.

The two trips at a glance

	August 2021	May 2026
Who	10 friends	Me and my wife
Where	Hunza and Fairy Meadows	Shogran, Naran and the road towards Babusar
Length	7 days	7 nights
Started from	Faisalabad	Faisalabad
Vehicle	Rented Toyota Hiace with a driver	Our own Toyota Vitz
Petrol, per litre	About PKR 170	About PKR 414
Total cost	About PKR 24,000 per person (about PKR 240,000 for the group)	About PKR 150,000 for two, including hotels, food and shopping

The 2021 trip: 10 friends and one Hiace

We hired a Toyota Hiace with a driver for the whole week. It cost about PKR 8,000 a day, which is about PKR 56,000 for 7 days. Petrol was about PKR 170 a litre.

Fairy Meadows was not popular yet, so hotels and food there were cheap. We paid about PKR 4,000 for a jeep for 5 people from Raikot to Tato, PKR 1,500 to 2,000 for a horse or a mule, and about PKR 6,000 a night for a hut that all 10 of us had to ourselves. A BBQ piece cost about PKR 1,000.

Counting everything, the trip cost about PKR 24,000 per person, which is roughly PKR 240,000 for the group. Sharing one vehicle, one hut and the fuel between 10 people is what kept it so low.

The 2026 trip: two people and our own car

In May 2026 I went with my wife for 7 nights in our own Toyota Vitz. We started from Faisalabad, stayed in Shogran and Naran, and drove towards Babusar Top, which was still closed by snow.

Petrol was about PKR 414 a litre. I spent about PKR 35,000 on fuel for the whole trip, from Faisalabad to every place we visited. Everything together, including hotels, food and shopping, came to about PKR 150,000. That is about PKR 21,000 a night for two people.

Hotels were the biggest cost. A deluxe room at Spruce in Shogran cost PKR 27,000 a night and Cedarwood cost PKR 24,500. In Naran I paid PKR 14,000 a night for 2 nights at Luxus, against its usual PKR 17,500. The season was just starting and the hotel was new, and I asked for a discount and told them I would review the hotel. I explain this in my hotel review.

Food and jeeps were smaller costs. A proper meal for two with tea cost about PKR 4,000 in Naran and PKR 6,000 to 8,000 at Cedarwood in Shogran. The jeep to Siri and Paye costs about PKR 6,000, and a jeep with a driver to Saif-ul-Malook costs about PKR 5,000.

How prices changed since 2021

What	2021	Today
Petrol, per litre	About PKR 170	About PKR 414
Hiace with a driver, per day	About PKR 8,000	I did not hire one in 2026
Fairy Meadows jeep, for 5 people	About PKR 4,000	PKR 14,000 to 16,000
Horse or mule from Tato	PKR 1,500 to 2,000	PKR 3,500 to 4,000
Fairy Meadows hut, per night	About PKR 6,000	About PKR 15,000
BBQ piece at Fairy Meadows	About PKR 1,000	PKR 2,000
Local room in Shogran	About PKR 4,000 (2022, from friends)	About PKR 8,000
The same 10-person, 7-day trip	About PKR 240,000	About PKR 600,000 (my own estimate)

Most of these prices have gone up two to four times. The Fairy Meadows jeep went up the most, from about PKR 4,000 to PKR 14,000 to 16,000. The PKR 600,000 figure is my own estimate of what the 2021 group trip would cost today, not a quote.

Why the cost per person is so different

Group size. In 2021, one vehicle, one hut and every tank of fuel were shared by 10 people. In 2026, two people carried every room and every litre of fuel.
The vehicle. In 2021 we hired a Hiace with a driver. In 2026 we used our own car, which is cheaper for a small group, and we could stop wherever we liked.
The hotels. In 2026 I stayed in some of the best hotels in Shogran. In 2021, prices in Fairy Meadows and Hunza were low.
The prices. Everything, from petrol to a roti, is more expensive now.

How to keep a trip like this affordable

Go in October. Rates are usually lower than in May, June and July, and there is no crowd.
Drive your own car. It costs less than hiring a vehicle for a small group, and you can stop where you like.
Share the big costs. A jeep seats 5 people, and a group can share a hut or a hotel room.
Choose a local hotel in Shogran. They cost PKR 5,000 to 8,000 a night, against PKR 24,500 to 27,000 at Spruce and Cedarwood. You can bargain, but only by about PKR 500.
Eat in Naran. A meal for two is about PKR 4,000, against PKR 6,000 to 8,000 at Cedarwood. I still think one dinner at Cedarwood is worth it.
Think about a package for Fairy Meadows. Tourist companies still offer a plan for around PKR 35,000 per person, which is simpler than arranging everything yourself.
Check rates at the start of the season. I paid PKR 14,000 instead of PKR 17,500 at a new hotel in Naran in May.

Quick answers

How much did the May 2026 trip cost? About PKR 150,000 for two people for 7 nights, including hotels, food and shopping. About PKR 35,000 of that was fuel.
How much did the 2021 trip cost? About PKR 24,000 per person for 10 friends over 7 days.
Is October cheaper than May? In my experience, rates in October are lower than in May, June and July.
Why is there no full breakdown? I did not keep receipts, so I only give the numbers I am sure about.

These figures are approximate and based on my own trips in August 2021 and May 2026. Prices change, so please check before you travel and read my disclaimer. If you went recently and something is different, tell me on the contact page.

October 20, 2026

Shogran, Naran and Babusar Top in May 2026: Road, Hotels, Food and Costs

Visited: May 2026 · Also: Shogran for the past 4 years, Babusar Top in 2021, Batakundi and Lulusar in 2021, 2024 and 2025 · Last checked: October 2026

In May 2026 I spent 7 nights in Shogran and Naran with my wife, in our own car, a Toyota Vitz, and drove towards Babusar Top. I have been visiting Shogran for the past four years, and I drove over Babusar in 2021, so I know this route well. This post covers the roads, the hotels, the food, what I spent, and when Babusar Top opens and closes.

Disclosure: I paid for all my stays. At Luxus Naran I asked for a discount and told them I would review the hotel, so I paid PKR 14,000 a night instead of the usual PKR 17,500. The other hotels in this post gave me no discount.

What the May 2026 trip cost me

We were two people, we travelled for 7 nights, and we started from Faisalabad. I spent about PKR 35,000 on fuel, at peak fuel prices. Everything together, including hotels, food and shopping, came to about PKR 150,000.

Hotel rates were lower than usual because the season was just starting, and a new Luxus hotel had just opened in Naran. Expect to pay more in the peak months.

The road: then and now

When I saw it around 2020, the road to Naran was still under development. Today it is very smooth. It is clean, and it is a proper highway for travel.

In May 2026 everything was super smooth, but the road had not been properly cleared because of snow. My Toyota Vitz, a small Japanese car, handled the drive smoothly and did not struggle anywhere.

Shogran: you can drive up now

I have visited Shogran for the past four years. My 2026 visit was in May, because I went with my wife. Otherwise, October is likely the best month to go, with cosy weather, especially if you are with friends.

The road from Kiwai to Shogran has been developed for the past two years, so you can take your own car now. You do not need a jeep to reach Shogran.

For Siri Paye, I always stay at Shogran and take a jeep from there the next morning. Some people used to park at Kiwai and take a jeep from there. I have never done that, and I do not think many people park there anymore, as of 2026.

Where I stayed in May 2026, and what it cost

Hotel	Place	Per night (May 2026)	What I noticed
Spruce	Shogran	PKR 27,000 (deluxe room)	Modern rooms. Each room has its own attached balcony.
Cedarwood	Shogran	PKR 24,500	Older furniture and interior. No separate attached balcony.
Luxus	Naran	PKR 14,000 (usual PKR 17,500)	My favourite place to stay.

Spruce had the more modern rooms, and each room had its own balcony. Cedarwood felt older, with old furniture and no separate balcony. Luxus Naran is my favourite place to stay.

If I had to choose one place to sleep in Shogran, I would choose Spruce.

Where to eat in Shogran and Naran

Shogran: Spruce has its own kitchen, but for dinner I prefer to go to Cedarwood. Its restaurant has breathtaking views. If you are not staying there, they charge PKR 1,000 per person extra to visit. A proper meal with tea for two people costs about PKR 6,000 to 8,000. It is expensive, but worth it. You can also just go in the evening for tea.

Naran: for desi food, Moon Restaurant and New Punjab Hotel are good choices. A proper meal for two people, including tea, costs about PKR 4,000.

Naran and Saif-ul-Malook

Naran in May was peaceful. It was empty, hotels were available, and the weather was calm, with no crowd.

I have been to Saif-ul-Malook only once in my life, and I do not like this lake, because it is easy for everyone to get to. If you want to go, a jeep with a driver costs about PKR 5,000 today.

Batakundi and Lulusar Lake: where to stop

Batakundi: there is no special sight to stop for, and I never stay there. The hotels in Batakundi do not have proper electricity: you get a single bulb at night and low voltage. I would not book a room there, because you will not find peace at that place. It is only somewhere to take a break on the way.

The Adventurers Resort & Restaurant: in Burawai, right after Batakundi on the way to Lulusar Lake, you can stop for coffee or tea. It is new, and most people who have not travelled beyond Naran since 2023 do not know about it. It is expensive. I had coffee and fries, and I have stopped there many times. I would not book a room there, because there is nothing around it and it looks scary at night. You can check their menu on their Google Maps listing.

Lulusar Lake: there is a restaurant with a lake view, and toilets are available. It serves breakfast and lunch, and I am not sure whether it opens at night. For breakfast you can get eggs in different styles with paratha or roti. For lunch or dinner you can get chicken karahi, daal varieties and sabzi, served with roti. From Lulusar it takes about 45 minutes to an hour to reach Babusar Top.

Babusar Top in May: still closed

I knew Babusar Top was closed before I left. I still wanted to enjoy the long drive, so I drove from Naran towards Babusar. The road was not fully open because of snow, and I could not reach the top.

Only the drive to Babusar Top is mesmerizing for me, not the top itself. Next time, whether I go will depend on my mood.

It is about 70 km from Naran to Babusar Top, and it takes 2 to 3 hours.

What Babusar Top is like (my 2021 visit)

You can easily stay for half an hour. There are views of valleys and mountains far away, and there is not much else to do. Have a cup of tea or coffee, eat some pakoras, and enjoy the view.

When does Babusar Top open and close?

Closes: every year, after 15 October.
Opens: around the start or the end of May, depending on the weather.

In May 2026 it was still closed, so do not count on the first days of May.

I check the road status on social media before I leave. TikTok is the best for these updates, and I prefer watching Zunair Kamboh’s updates.

How we went in 2021: Faisalabad to Chilas

In 2021 my group went from Faisalabad to Islamabad, then took the Hazara Motorway to Mansehra, then Mansehra to Naran, Naran to Babusar, Babusar to Chilas, and from Chilas on to Fairy Meadows.

We drove from Faisalabad to Chilas in about 23 hours of driving, in a rented Hiace. I do not recommend doing that in one go.

Fuel, signal and what to pack

Petrol stations on the way: Bhera rest area, Chakri, Islamabad, Mansehra interchange and Balakot city. Naran also has fuel stations. Gilgit has them too, on the Karakoram Highway.

Mobile signal: there is no network at Batakundi and beyond, until you reach Chilas or Jaglot. In Hunza, SCOM was the only SIM that worked on my trips in 2017 and 2021. You can recharge it with Nayapay or at local mobile shops. Coverage changes, so check before you go.

What to pack: a jacket is a must if you travel between October and May.

Is this drive worth it?

Yes. The road is now smooth and comfortable, and you can drive to Shogran in your own car. Naran was quiet in May, and the drive from Naran towards Babusar Top is the best part. The top itself is only for tea, pakoras and a view, so check the road status before you leave, because Babusar Top was still closed by snow in May 2026.

These figures are approximate and based on my May 2026 trip, my visits to Shogran over the past four years, and my 2021 trip over Babusar. Prices and road conditions change, so please check before you travel and read my disclaimer. If you went recently and something is different, tell me on the contact page.

October 20, 2026

Shogran Travel Guide: Road, Siri and Paye, Hotels and Food (After 4 Visits)

Visited: first week of October in 2023, 2024 and 2025, and May 2026 · Last checked: October 2026

I have been to Shogran four times: in the first week of October in 2023, 2024 and 2025, and in May 2026 with my wife. Shogran is a very small place, and it has changed a lot in these years. The road is developed, the hotels are better, and prices have roughly doubled.

This guide covers how to get there, where to stay and eat, how I do Siri and Paye, the best month to go, and what to carry.

Shogran at a glance

Shogran quick facts	Details
Best month	October. It has the best weather and fewer people.
Time from Islamabad	About 6 hours
Road from Kiwai to Shogran	Fully developed. No jeep needed.
Jeep from Shogran to Siri and Paye	About PKR 6,000
Local hotel, per night	PKR 5,000 to 8,000, depending on location and room type
Spruce (deluxe room) or Cedarwood, per night	PKR 27,000 at Spruce and PKR 24,500 at Cedarwood (May 2026)
Dinner for two at Cedarwood, with tea	About PKR 6,000 to 8,000
Mobile signal	None at Siri and Paye. Full 4G at Shogran.
ATMs or banks in Shogran	None. Carry cash.

What changed since my first visit

The road. The road from Kiwai to Shogran has been developed for the past two years. You can take your own car now, and you do not need a jeep.
The hotels. The hotels are better now. New hotels are still being built, because it is easy to reach Shogran in your own vehicle.
The prices. Prices are about double what they were. For example, friends who stayed in Shogran in 2022 told me a room cost about PKR 4,000. The same kind of room now costs about PKR 8,000.

Getting there

From Islamabad to Shogran it takes about 6 hours. The road from Kiwai to Shogran is fully developed, so you can drive all the way up in your own car.

I have never parked a car at Kiwai, so I do not know what it costs. I do not think many people park there anymore, as of 2026.

Siri and Paye: how I do it

I always stay at Shogran to rest. The next morning I take a jeep from Shogran to Siri and Paye. It costs about PKR 6,000, and I spend the whole day there.

If you can, hike to Makra Peak as well. It is the top at that point. It takes about an hour to reach Makra Peak from Paye Meadow.

The hike is a long walk, and honestly it is a little difficult. But the view from the top is worth it.

I do not stay at Kiwai for food or a meal. The only reason to do that is if some condition stops you from reaching Shogran.

What the day looks like. You can have breakfast at any of the spots there. You can easily get paratha, egg, daal and roti.

The rest of the day is for the mountain views and the walks in the valleys, which are breathtaking. Enjoy the walk, and enjoy your own company, or your friends and family.

There is no cellular service at Siri and Paye, so you will have no screen time. Come back before sunset. The jeep track is muddy, and your full 4G coverage comes back once you reach Shogran.

Where to stay in Shogran

Spruce. This is the one I recommend. It has more modern rooms, and each room has its own attached balcony. A deluxe room cost PKR 27,000 a night in May 2026, early in the season.

Cedarwood. It cost PKR 24,500 a night. It feels older, with old furniture and no separate balcony. I go there for dinner instead (see below).

Cheaper local hotels. There are cheaper options for people who do not want luxury. These local hotels have rooms for about PKR 5,000 to 8,000 a night, depending on their location and the type of room. You can bargain, but only by about PKR 500.

If you plan to visit when it is snowy, call the hotel first and ask if it is open. You can find the numbers for Spruce, Pine Park and Cedarwood on Google.

Where to eat in Shogran

Spruce has its own kitchen, but for dinner I prefer to go to Cedarwood. Its restaurant has breathtaking views. If you are not staying there, they charge PKR 1,000 per person extra to visit. A proper meal for two people, with tea, costs about PKR 6,000 to 8,000. It is expensive, but worth it. You can also go in the evening just for tea.

An evening in Shogran

In the evening, walk to the small bazaar. You can enjoy the local eateries, with fast food, desi food, coffee and fries.

Do not shop for anything at the bazaar unless you need it or want something badly. Shogran is very small, so most of the time you will enjoy your own company at your hotel, with your friends or family.

Best months to visit

October is the best month. It is colder than May, the weather is at its best, and there are fewer people. From April to September it is easy to reach, but it is likely to be crowded.

I go in October every year because the rates are usually lower than in May, June and July. There is no crowd, so I can enjoy the peace. We like quiet places and we do not like crowds.

You can also visit when it is snowy if you love snow. Just call ahead to check that your hotel is open.

What to carry

A jacket. Always carry one. The weather changes at night, so it keeps you warm.
Gloves: only if you are visiting in a snowy month or on a snowy day.
Cash. Most places now accept bank transfers, but there are no ATMs or banks in Shogran, so keep cash with you.

How I would plan 2 days in Shogran

Day 1. Drive up from Islamabad (about 6 hours), check in, walk to the bazaar in the evening, and have dinner or tea at Cedarwood.
Day 2. Take the jeep to Siri and Paye in the morning (about PKR 6,000), have breakfast there, walk the valleys, and hike to Makra Peak if you can (about an hour from Paye Meadow). Be back in Shogran before sunset.

Quick answers

Do I need a jeep to reach Shogran? No. The road from Kiwai is fully developed.
Do I need a jeep for Siri and Paye? Yes. I take one from Shogran for about PKR 6,000.
Is there an ATM? No. Carry cash.
When is the best time? October.
Can I visit in snow? Yes, but call your hotel first.
Is there mobile signal at Siri and Paye? No. Full 4G comes back at Shogran.
Is Shogran or Naran quieter? Shogran.

Shogran or Naran?

If you are an introvert, you will love the peaceful environment at Shogran. Naran is much more crowded than Shogran.

Naran was quiet when I went in May 2026, early in the season, but in general it is far busier. If you want calm and your own company, I would choose Shogran.

Is Shogran worth it?

Yes. It is a small, calm place, and the road makes it easy now. Go in October if you can, stay at Spruce, spend a full day at Siri and Paye, and keep an evening free for tea at Cedarwood.

These figures are approximate and based on my four visits to Shogran. Prices change, so please check before you travel and read my disclaimer. If you went recently and something is different, tell me on the contact page.

October 20, 2026

How to Reach Fairy Meadows: Jeep Track, Trek, Huts and Costs (2021 vs Today)

Visited: August 2021 · Current prices checked: October 2026

I have been to Fairy Meadows once, in August 2021, with a group of 10 friends. We started from Faisalabad in a rented Toyota Hiace with a driver, and Fairy Meadows was part of a 7-day trip that also covered Hunza.

The jeep track and the trek are still the same, but prices have gone up a lot since then. This guide covers how to get there, what it costs, where to stay, and what I would pack. Today’s prices come from a driver there who I am still in touch with, and they change often.

Fairy Meadows at a glance: 2021 vs today

What	August 2021	Today
Jeep from Raikot to Tato (a jeep for 5 people)	About PKR 4,000	PKR 14,000 to 16,000
Horse or mule from Tato	PKR 1,500 to 2,000	PKR 3,500 to 4,000, after bargaining
Hut, per night	About PKR 6,000 (my group of 10 had the whole hut)	About PKR 15,000
BBQ, one leg or chest piece	About PKR 1,000	PKR 2,000
One roti	I did not note it	PKR 150
Noodles at Beyal Camp	I did not note it	PKR 500
Crowds	Few people knew about it	Packed in May, June and July
Package from a tourist company	I did not note it	Around PKR 35,000 per person

Prices vary almost every day now, so treat these as a guide.

Getting there: parking and the jeep track

We hired a Toyota Hiace with a driver and drove up from Faisalabad. There is parking for cars at Raikot, before the jeep track, so you can leave your vehicle there easily.

From there you take a jeep. In 2021 we hired jeeps for 5 people each, and it cost about PKR 4,000. Today the same ride costs PKR 14,000 to 16,000 a jeep, according to a driver I am still in touch with.

The jeep track is really scary. You will only enjoy the ride if you love adventure. The track is still the same as it was in 2021.

From Tato to Fairy Meadows: hike or ride

After the jeep reaches Tato, you can continue on foot, or hire a horse or a mule. In 2021 that cost PKR 1,500 to 2,000. Today it is PKR 3,500 to 4,000, depending on how well you bargain.

The hike takes about 4 hours in total, with several stops and breaks along the way. It is tiring, so take small steps to save your energy, and keep ORS with you. You will find a midpoint with a canteen where you can get water and snacks.

If you plan to hike from Tato, take two pairs of shoes. If one pair tears or the sole breaks, you can change into the other.

Where to stay: a hut at Fairy Meadows

We stayed in a Greenwood hut. We had the whole hut to ourselves, and all 10 of us fit comfortably, with beds and mattresses. There was also a fire pit inside the hut that works as a heater and keeps the room warm. In 2021 it cost about PKR 6,000 a night. Today it costs about PKR 15,000 a night, according to my contact there.

In the morning you get hot water at the hotel for only a few hours, so wake up accordingly, take a bath, and get some sunshine. New hotels have been built since 2021, but not too many. Even in the busy months you can still find a hotel.

Food: order a day before

At Fairy Meadows you can get daal, sabzi and even BBQ, but you have to tell them a day before. It is expensive. A BBQ leg piece or chest piece costs PKR 2,000 a piece today, and it was about PKR 1,000 in 2021. A single roti costs PKR 150 today.

What to do at Fairy Meadows

Watch the night sky. It is a view you normally never see in a crowded city like Faisalabad or Lahore.
Sit by a bonfire. You can buy a bonfire pit with seating. If someone in your group sings or plays the guitar, it makes the night. You may also meet other travellers doing the same, and you can ask if you can sit with them.
Start the morning slowly. Wake up for the hot water, enjoy the sunshine, and have some kehwa while you wait for breakfast.

Beyal Camp

On the second morning, my friends and I hiked to Beyal Camp. It is about a 1-hour walk from Fairy Meadows, and it is much easier than the hike up from Tato.

Beyal Camp is for people who do not love crowds and want some peaceful time on their own. There is a small canteen where you can get cooked noodles for PKR 500 today, and chips like Lay’s and biscuits.

I have Nanga Parbat photos from Fairy Meadows, from Beyal Camp and from the zero point after it.

No mobile signal: tell your family first

There is no cellular service and no mobile internet at Fairy Meadows. There is a PCO (public call office) where you can make calls, in the evening between 5 and 7. Ask your hotel for the exact PCO hours.

Before you start the jeep track, tell your family that you will contact them as soon as you can.

Best time to go, and crowds

Go between May and August only. In September it gets closed, because snowy tracks make it impossible to reach.

In 2021 very few people knew about Fairy Meadows, so it was not crowded. Today May, June and July are fully packed, but you can still get a hotel.

What the trip cost me

In 2021 I went with 10 friends for 7 days in Hunza and Fairy Meadows. The rental car with a driver, meals, hotels and everything else came to about PKR 24,000 each.

It would cost much more today, because petrol prices have doubled and everything is more expensive. If you want to plan it easily, I recommend buying a package from a tourist company. They still offer a Fairy Meadows plan for around PKR 35,000 per person.

What to pack

A padded jacket.
Two pairs of shoes, in case you hike from Tato and one pair gets damaged.
Common medicines: for constipation and headache, plus ORS or an electrolyte drink. Keep ORS with you on the hike.

What changed since 2021

Prices are almost three times higher than in 2021. The jeep track is the same. A few new hotels have been developed, but not too many. Fairy Meadows is also much more crowded in May, June and July.

Is Fairy Meadows worth it?

Yes, if you love adventure and want quiet nights under a clear sky. The jeep track is scary, there is no mobile signal, and prices are much higher than they were in 2021, so go prepared.

These figures are approximate. I visited Fairy Meadows once, in August 2021. Today’s prices come from a driver there who I am still in touch with, and they change often. Please check before you travel and read my disclaimer. If you went recently and something is different, tell me on the contact page.

October 20, 2026

Author: Shaeel Iqbal

Shogran vs Naran at a glance

If you want quiet, choose Shogran

If you want the Babusar road, choose Naran

Cost: where your money goes further

Weather and the best months

Which one should you pick?

Quick answers

Hunza at a glance: then and now

What changed between 2017 and 2021

Getting there: about 650 km from Islamabad

What a 7-day group trip cost me in 2021

The roads: much better than before

Where to stay: from about PKR 8,000 to PKR 45,000 a night

Food: about PKR 1,000 per person per meal

Crowds: busier every summer

The surprise: the route closes by mid-October

What got better, and what got worse

What not to miss

Khunjerab Pass: read this before you go

How I would plan Hunza in 2026

Is Hunza worth visiting in 2026?

Food prices at a glance

Shogran

Naran

Burawai and Lulusar Lake

Fairy Meadows and Beyal Camp

Hunza

My tips for eating well and not overspending

Quick answers

The three hotels at a glance

Spruce, Shogran

Cedarwood, Shogran

Luxus, Naran

What all three have in common

Which one should you choose?

Quick answers

The route at a glance

Tolls

Where to stop

Fuel stops

When to leave

Mobile signal on this route

In 2021 we drove further: Faisalabad to Chilas in 23 hours

Quick answers

The two trips at a glance

The 2021 trip: 10 friends and one Hiace

The 2026 trip: two people and our own car

How prices changed since 2021

Why the cost per person is so different

How to keep a trip like this affordable

Quick answers

What the May 2026 trip cost me

The road: then and now

Shogran: you can drive up now

Where I stayed in May 2026, and what it cost

Where to eat in Shogran and Naran

Naran and Saif-ul-Malook

Batakundi and Lulusar Lake: where to stop

Babusar Top in May: still closed

What Babusar Top is like (my 2021 visit)

When does Babusar Top open and close?

How we went in 2021: Faisalabad to Chilas

Fuel, signal and what to pack

Is this drive worth it?

Shogran at a glance

What changed since my first visit

Getting there

Siri and Paye: how I do it

Where to stay in Shogran

Where to eat in Shogran

An evening in Shogran

Best months to visit

What to carry

How I would plan 2 days in Shogran

Quick answers

Shogran or Naran?

Is Shogran worth it?

Fairy Meadows at a glance: 2021 vs today

Getting there: parking and the jeep track