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Category: Travel Tips

Packing, altitude, safety, budgeting and practical advice for travelling in northern Pakistan.

  • Shogran or Naran? Which One to Pick After 4 Visits (Crowds, Hotels, Food, Weather)

    Shogran: first week of October in 2023, 2024 and 2025, and May 2026 · Naran: several visits, most recently May 2026 · Last checked: October 2026

    Shogran and Naran are both in the Kaghan side of the mountains, only a drive apart, and most people pick one without knowing much about the other. I have been to Shogran four times and to Naran several times, most recently in May 2026. I prefer Shogran, and this post explains why, who should choose which, and what each costs.

    If you like your own company and not crowds, read the Shogran section first. If you want a base for the Babusar road, Batakundi and Lulusar Lake, Naran makes more sense.

    Shogran vs Naran at a glance

    ShogranNaran
    CrowdsQuiet and peacefulMuch more crowded in general (empty when I went in May 2026, early in the season)
    Best monthOctoberOctober for peace, or April and May to escape the heat of the plains
    Getting thereAbout 6 hours from Islamabad. The road from Kiwai is fully developedOn the main highway. About 12 hours from Faisalabad
    Hotels, per nightLocal hotels PKR 5,000 to 8,000. Spruce PKR 27,000. Cedarwood PKR 24,500 (May 2026)Luxus PKR 14,000 (usual PKR 17,500) in May 2026
    Meal for two with teaPKR 6,000 to 8,000 at CedarwoodAbout PKR 4,000
    Things to doSiri and Paye, Makra Peak, the small bazaar, tea at CedarwoodSaif-ul-Malook, and the road to Batakundi, Lulusar Lake and Babusar Top
    AirClean air, less pollutionNot noted

    If you want quiet, choose Shogran

    If you are an introvert, you will love the peaceful environment in Shogran. Naran is much more crowded. In my experience, Shogran has less crowd, cleaner air and less pollution, and most of the time you enjoy your own company at your hotel with your friends or family.

    I travel in October because the rates are usually lower than in May, June and July, and there is no crowd. My friends and I like quiet places, and Shogran in the first week of October is exactly that.

    One honest note: Naran was almost empty when I went in May 2026, early in the season. But in general it is far busier than Shogran, especially from April to September.

    If you want the Babusar road, choose Naran

    Naran is the better base if you want to drive towards Babusar Top. From Naran it is about 70 km and 2 to 3 hours to the top. It is also the gateway to Batakundi and Lulusar Lake. I think the drive from Naran to Babusar Top is the best part of that side of the mountains. The top itself is only for tea, pakoras and a view.

    Saif-ul-Malook is also near Naran. I have only been once, and I do not like this lake, because it is easy for everyone to get to. A jeep with a driver costs about PKR 5,000 today.

    Cost: where your money goes further

    • Hotels. Shogran has cheap local hotels at PKR 5,000 to 8,000 a night. The two well-known hotels, Spruce and Cedarwood, cost PKR 27,000 and PKR 24,500 in May 2026. In Naran, Luxus cost me PKR 14,000 against its usual PKR 17,500.
    • Food. A meal for two with tea is about PKR 4,000 in Naran, against PKR 6,000 to 8,000 at Cedarwood in Shogran.
    • Activities. The jeep to Siri and Paye costs about PKR 6,000. A jeep to Saif-ul-Malook costs about PKR 5,000.

    Weather and the best months

    October is the best month for the weather in both places, and the nights are colder. April and May are good if you want to escape the summer heat of cities like Faisalabad and Lahore. Always carry a jacket.

    I would avoid Murree and Nathia Gali if you want quiet. In my opinion they are too crowded.

    Which one should you pick?

    • You like quiet and your own company: Shogran, in October.
    • You are going with family: Shogran has a calm setting, and Cedarwood is a good choice for families.
    • You are driving on towards Babusar, Batakundi or Lulusar: Naran.
    • You are on a tight budget: Naran for meals and a local hotel in Shogran for rooms.
    • You want a bonfire night with friends: Spruce or Pine Park in Shogran.

    Quick answers

    • Is Shogran quieter than Naran? Yes, much quieter in general.
    • Which is cheaper? Naran for food. Shogran for rooms if you choose a local hotel.
    • Which is better in October? Shogran. It has the best weather and the fewest people.
    • Do I need a jeep for Shogran? No. The road from Kiwai is fully developed.

    Related: Shogran travel guide · Shogran, Naran and Babusar Top in May 2026 · Spruce vs Cedarwood vs Luxus Naran · Food prices in Shogran and Naran

    This comparison is based on my own visits. Prices and crowds change, so please check before you travel and read my disclaimer. If you visited recently and something is different, tell me on the contact page.

  • Hunza in 2017 vs 2026: What Changed in Prices, Roads and Crowds

    Visited: 2017 and 2021 · 2026 details: from my brother’s trip · Last checked: October 2026

    I have been to Hunza twice: in 2017 and in 2021. I did not go in 2026, but my brother did, and he told me about the prices, the roads and the crowds. This post compares what I saw on my trips with what he found in 2026.

    If you are planning a trip this year, this is what I would want to know before going. All prices are approximate and in PKR. Where a detail comes from my brother’s 2026 trip, I say so.

    Hunza at a glance: then and now

    WhatThenNow (2026)
    Budget room, per nightAbout PKR 4,000 (2017)About PKR 8,000 for friends travelling without family, up to about PKR 45,000
    One restaurant meal, per personI did not note itAbout PKR 1,000, with a full meal and tea
    Road from Naran towards BabusarVery rough (around 2020)Fully developed and clean
    CrowdsQuieterBusier every summer, very crowded in June, July and August
    Access and things to seeFewer attractions, harder accessEasy access, many attractions, easy for families
    Places to stayFewer optionsMany more hotels, plus Airbnb options in Karimabad

    The 2026 hotel, food and crowd details come from my brother’s trip.

    What changed between 2017 and 2021

    My second trip, in 2021, felt different from the first. There were more hotels and more places to stay, and the roads were the biggest change.

    • More hotels and accommodation options. There was much more to choose from than in 2017.
    • Better roads. I took the Babusar route in 2021, and the road was fully developed and clean. I did not notice any patches.

    The next big changes came between 2021 and 2026: much higher hotel prices and much bigger summer crowds, according to my brother.

    Getting there: about 650 km from Islamabad

    It is about 650 km one way from Islamabad to Hunza, or to the Khunjerab Pass. That is a long drive, so plan your days around it.

    Travelling in your own vehicle still costs less than hired transport, and it gives you freedom. You can stop where you like, and you can stay a night on the way if you want, because you are not bound to a transport company’s schedule.

    What a 7-day group trip cost me in 2021

    In 2021 I went with friends in a rented Toyota Hiace with a driver. We were a group of 10 and the trip lasted 7 days, covering Hunza and Fairy Meadows.

    Counting everything (the vehicle rental, fuel, meals and everything else we spent), the total came to about PKR 24,000 per person. For the whole group, that was roughly PKR 240,000.

    Sharing one vehicle and its fuel between 10 people keeps the cost per person low. Hotel prices have gone up a lot since then, so expect a higher total today.

    The roads: much better than before

    Around 2020, the road from Naran towards Babusar was very rough. When I took the Babusar route in 2021, it was fully developed and clean, with no patches, and it is still fully developed today. The drive is far more comfortable than it used to be.

    You may still see construction in the Gilgit part, where the Diamer-Bhasha Dam is being built.

    Where to stay: from about PKR 8,000 to PKR 45,000 a night

    In 2017, a budget room in Hunza cost me around PKR 4,000 a night. My brother says the range in 2026 is much wider. There has been a lot of hotel development, so you can pick a hotel by your budget and the standard you want, and prices now go up to about PKR 45,000 a night.

    If you are travelling with friends and not with family, you can still find a hotel for around PKR 8,000 a night. If you are travelling with family, you will probably want a higher standard, which costs more.

    I do not remember hotel names from my own trips. I just visit a few hotels and choose the one with better amenities or a better rate, so I cannot recommend a specific name. What I can tell you is where to look: there are some good Airbnb options in Karimabad, and if you are heading to Khunjerab Pass you can stay around the Sost border area before it.

    Food: about PKR 1,000 per person per meal

    My brother says a normal restaurant meal in 2026 costs about PKR 1,000 per person. That includes a full meal and tea, and it is more than enough for one person. If you eat three meals a day, plan for about PKR 3,000 per person per day on food.

    Crowds: busier every summer

    From what I saw in 2017 and 2021, and from what my brother saw in 2026, Hunza gets busier every year. People travel mostly between April and September. Many are now bored of the older tourist spots like Naran and Shogran, so they head further north to Hunza instead.

    • April and May: no rush. This is the best time if you like it quiet.
    • June, July and August: too crowded. This is the biggest change for the worse.

    The surprise: the route closes by mid-October

    Babusar Top closes every year after 15 October, so by mid-October you cannot travel to Hunza via Babusar or Chilas. Snowfall covers the roads fully, and you have to go through Besham instead.

    My brother found the road on the Besham side still in bad condition, and the weather around Besham, Chilas and Jaglot dry and hot. If you are travelling in autumn, check the road situation before you leave.

    Babusar Top usually reopens around the start or the end of May, depending on the weather. In May 2026 it was still closed by snow when I drove up from Naran, so check before you go.

    What got better, and what got worse

    Better:

    • The road from Naran towards Babusar is fully developed.
    • Access is easy and there are many more attractions.
    • Families can travel easily and find good spots.
    • April and May are calm.

    Worse:

    • Hotel prices are much higher than in 2017.
    • June, July and August are very crowded.
    • The Besham route is still in bad condition when Babusar closes.

    What not to miss

    If you only have time for a few things, these are the ones I would not skip:

    • The Karakoram Highway: the drive itself is part of the trip.
    • Attabad Lake
    • Hussaini Bridge
    • Eagle’s Nest: go at dawn or dusk.

    Khunjerab Pass: read this before you go

    I went to the Khunjerab border on my first visit to Hunza in 2017. The oxygen level at Khunjerab Pass is low, and you can only stay there for about 10 to 15 minutes at most.

    If you have asthma, do not go there. The change in air pressure can also give you a headache, so keep paracetamol with you.

    I am not a doctor. If you have any medical condition, talk to your doctor before you plan this part of the trip.

    How I would plan Hunza in 2026

    1. Pick your month. April or May for quiet. June to August only if you do not mind the crowds. Do not leave it until mid-October.
    2. Choose your vehicle. Your own vehicle costs less and lets you stop when you want.
    3. Set a hotel budget. Around PKR 8,000 a night for friends travelling together, and more if you want a higher standard or are travelling with family.
    4. Budget for food. About PKR 1,000 per person per meal.
    5. Check the route. Know whether Babusar is open before you leave.
    6. Prepare for Khunjerab. Keep paracetamol with you, plan for only 10 to 15 minutes at the top, and skip it if you have asthma.

    Is Hunza worth visiting in 2026?

    Yes. If you have not been to Hunza, you should go once in your life. There is more than Murree and Naran ahead. Enjoy the Karakoram Highway, Attabad Lake and Hussaini Bridge, and make time for Eagle’s Nest at dawn or dusk.

    Related: How to reach Fairy Meadows · Shogran, Naran and Babusar Top in May 2026 · What a northern Pakistan trip costs · Faisalabad to Naran by road

    These figures are approximate. They are based on my trips to Hunza in 2017 and 2021, and on my brother’s 2026 trip. Prices and road conditions change, so please check before you travel and read my disclaimer. If you went recently and something is different, tell me on the contact page.

  • What Food Costs in Shogran, Naran, Lulusar and Fairy Meadows (2026 Prices)

    Eaten here: 2021 to 2026 · Prices checked: October 2026

    Food is one of the biggest surprises on a northern Pakistan trip, because prices change a lot from one place to the next. A breakfast can come with the room in one town, and a roti can cost PKR 150 in another. These are the prices I paid or was told in 2026, from Shogran to Fairy Meadows, along with the places I would go back to.

    Food prices at a glance

    PlaceWhatPrice (2026)
    Cedarwood, ShogranA proper meal with tea for twoPKR 6,000 to 8,000 (plus PKR 1,000 per person if you are not a guest)
    NaranA proper meal with tea for twoAbout PKR 4,000
    Fairy MeadowsBBQ leg or chest piecePKR 2,000 a piece (about PKR 1,000 in 2021)
    Fairy MeadowsOne rotiPKR 150
    Beyal CampCooked noodlesPKR 500
    Hunza (from my brother)A restaurant meal with tea, per personAbout PKR 1,000

    Prices vary, and at Fairy Meadows they change almost every day. Treat these as a guide.

    Shogran

    Breakfast comes with the room at both Spruce and Cedarwood. It is a buffet with fresh juices, toast, eggs made live the way you like, and paratha, puri, channay and halwa. You can ask for a fresh paratha.

    For dinner I go to Cedarwood, even when I am staying at Spruce. Spruce has its own kitchen, but the Cedarwood restaurant has breathtaking views. One afternoon at about 3 PM I ordered a sauce pasta and some sandwiches to my room, since they offer room service. That night I went to their dine-in area and ordered chicken karahi with roti and naan, a plate of biryani, and a half bowl of hot and sour soup, because it was raining and cold.

    A proper meal with tea for two costs about PKR 6,000 to 8,000 at Cedarwood. It is expensive, but worth it once. If you are not staying there, they charge PKR 1,000 per person extra to visit, and you can also go in the evening just for tea.

    The small Shogran bazaar has local eateries with fast food, desi food, coffee and fries. At Siri and Paye you can have breakfast at any of the spots there, such as paratha, egg, daal and roti.

    Naran

    For desi food, I recommend Moon Restaurant and New Punjab Hotel. A proper meal for two people with tea costs about PKR 4,000, which is much less than dinner at Cedarwood.

    Burawai and Lulusar Lake

    The Adventurers Resort and Restaurant is in Burawai, right after Batakundi, on the way to Lulusar Lake. It is expensive. I had coffee and fries there, and I have stopped there many times. I do not remember the exact prices, but you can check their menu on their Google Maps listing.

    The restaurant at Lulusar Lake has a lake view, and toilets are available. It serves breakfast and lunch, and I am not sure whether it opens at night. For breakfast you can get eggs in different styles with paratha or roti. For lunch or dinner you can get chicken karahi, daal varieties and sabzi, served with roti.

    Fairy Meadows and Beyal Camp

    At Fairy Meadows you can get daal, sabzi and even BBQ, but you have to tell them a day before. A BBQ leg or chest piece costs PKR 2,000 a piece today, and it was about PKR 1,000 in 2021. A single roti costs PKR 150. Prices vary almost every day now.

    At Beyal Camp there is a small canteen. Cooked noodles cost PKR 500 today, and they also sell chips like Lay’s and biscuits.

    Hunza

    My brother tells me that a normal restaurant meal in Hunza in 2026 costs about PKR 1,000 per person, with a full meal and tea included. He says that is more than enough for one person.

    My tips for eating well and not overspending

    • Order BBQ a day ahead at Fairy Meadows. They need to know the day before.
    • Splurge once at Cedarwood. The views and the dinner are worth the price. Eat the rest of your meals in Naran-style restaurants, where a meal for two is about PKR 4,000.
    • Take breakfast at the hotel. It is included in the room price at the hotels where I stayed, so you do not pay for it twice.
    • Carry cash. There are no ATMs or banks in Shogran, and most places in the mountains work better with cash.
    • Do not shop at the Shogran bazaar unless you really need something. It is better for tea, coffee and fries in the evening.

    Quick answers

    • How much is a meal for two in Naran? About PKR 4,000, with tea.
    • How much is dinner at Cedarwood? PKR 6,000 to 8,000 for two, plus PKR 1,000 per person if you are not a guest.
    • Do I need to order food in advance at Fairy Meadows? For BBQ, yes. Tell them a day before.
    • Is there food at Beyal Camp? Yes, a small canteen with noodles at PKR 500, chips and biscuits.

    Related: Spruce vs Cedarwood vs Luxus Naran · Shogran travel guide · How to reach Fairy Meadows

    These prices are approximate and come from my own visits and, where I say so, from my brother. Prices change, so please check before you travel and read my disclaimer. If you ate there recently and prices are different, tell me on the contact page.

  • Spruce vs Cedarwood vs Luxus Naran: My Honest Hotel Review (Prices, Rooms, Food)

    Stayed: May 2026 · Last checked: October 2026

    In May 2026 I stayed at two hotels in Shogran, Spruce and Cedarwood, and at Luxus in Naran. Booking pages show you photos and a price, but not the things that decide a stay: hot water, heating, breakfast, balconies and staff. This is my honest review of all three.

    Disclosure: I paid for all three stays. At Luxus Naran I asked for a discount and told them I would review the hotel, so I paid PKR 14,000 a night instead of the usual PKR 17,500. Spruce and Cedarwood gave me no discount.

    The three hotels at a glance

    Spruce (Shogran)Cedarwood (Shogran)Luxus (Naran)
    Price per night, May 2026PKR 27,000 (deluxe room)PKR 24,500PKR 14,000 (usual PKR 17,500)
    BreakfastComplimentary buffetComplimentary buffetComplimentary, same menu
    Balcony and viewOwn attached balcony for each roomShared balcony, view of the hotel lawnSecond-floor room with its own balcony and a mountain view
    Hot water24 hours24 hoursWarm, not very hot
    Room heatingNone. Extra cost if you want itNone. Extra cost if you want itI did not check
    Wi-Fi24 hours24 hoursI did not check
    ParkingYes, with guards at nightYes, with guards at nightYes
    What I would improveStaff uniforms and guidance on serving guestsOld furniture and a dated interiorWater temperature

    The prices are what I paid early in the season, in May 2026. Rates are higher in the peak months.

    Spruce, Shogran

    Spruce is the hotel I recommend in Shogran. The rooms are modern, and every room has its own attached balcony, so you get the view without sharing it. A deluxe room cost me PKR 27,000 a night.

    The one thing I would improve is the staff. They need proper uniforms and some guidance on how to serve and talk to guests. The rooms and the views are the strong points.

    If you are going with friends, Spruce is the better choice. You can enjoy a bonfire at night, which is part of why a group trip here is so enjoyable.

    Cedarwood, Shogran

    Cedarwood cost PKR 24,500 a night. The rooms feel outdated, with old furniture, and there is no separate balcony. You share one, and it looks over the hotel lawn, which is still worth a look. That is what I would tell them to improve first.

    I would take Cedarwood for a family trip, and Spruce for friends. The food is where Cedarwood shines. The restaurant has breathtaking views, and they offer room service.

    One afternoon at about 3 PM I ordered a sauce pasta and some sandwiches to my room. At night I went to their dine-in area and ordered chicken karahi with roti and naan, a plate of biryani, and a half bowl of hot and sour soup, because it was raining and cold. The cool wind made it one of the most memorable nights of the trip.

    If you are not staying at Cedarwood, they charge PKR 1,000 per person extra to visit. A proper meal with tea for two costs about PKR 6,000 to 8,000. It is expensive, but worth it.

    Luxus, Naran

    Luxus is a new hotel in Naran, and it was my favourite stay of the trip. My room was on the second floor, with its own balcony and a mountain view.

    Breakfast was complimentary, with the same menu as Spruce and Cedarwood. The dining area was better and cleaner than the one at Spruce, in my opinion. Parking is proper, and the staff were cooperative.

    I paid PKR 14,000 a night for 2 nights, against the usual PKR 17,500 for a normal room. The hotel was new, the season was just starting, and Naran was empty, so there was room to ask. As I said above, I asked for the discount and told them I would review the hotel.

    The only thing I would improve is the hot water. It is not very hot, because they adjust the water temperature in each room to a standard warm. If you want a hot shower, ask the staff before you shower, or check the water temperature first.

    What all three have in common

    • Breakfast. All three include a buffet in the room price. You get fresh juices, toast, eggs made live the way you like, and paratha, puri, channay and halwa. You can ask for a fresh paratha.
    • No room heating at Spruce or Cedarwood. You pay extra if you want it.
    • Wi-Fi. The Shogran hotels have Wi-Fi 24 hours, but keep your 4G ready in case the hotel internet is slow.
    • Parking and security. There is proper parking, and at Spruce and Cedarwood guards look after the vehicles at night.

    Which one should you choose?

    • Friends: Spruce. Pine Park is the other hotel in Shogran I would recommend for a group, but this review covers only the hotels where I stayed.
    • Family: Cedarwood, for the lawn, the restaurant and the quieter setting.
    • Best value: Luxus Naran, especially early in the season.
    • Tight budget: a local hotel in Shogran costs about PKR 5,000 to 8,000 a night. You can bargain, but only by about PKR 500.

    Quick answers

    • Which hotel in Shogran has the best views? Spruce, because every room has its own attached balcony.
    • Is breakfast included? Yes, at all three.
    • Is there heating in the rooms? Not at Spruce or Cedarwood. You pay extra.
    • Is there hot water? 24 hours at Spruce and Cedarwood. At Luxus it is only warm, so ask first.

    Related: Shogran travel guide · Shogran, Naran and Babusar Top in May 2026 · What a northern Pakistan trip costs

    These details are from my stays in May 2026. Prices and facilities change, so please check with the hotel before you book and read my disclaimer. If you stayed recently and something is different, tell me on the contact page.

  • Faisalabad to Naran and Shogran by Road: Route, Tolls, Rest Stops and Timing

    Drove it: May 2026 (own car, daytime) and 2021 (rented Hiace, to Chilas) · Last checked: October 2026

    Almost every route guide to northern Pakistan starts from Islamabad. If you live in Faisalabad or Lahore, you have to reach Islamabad first, and that is where many people lose time. I drove from Faisalabad to Naran and Shogran in May 2026, and in 2021 I drove all the way from Faisalabad to Chilas. This is the route, the tolls, the rest stops and the timing that worked for me.

    Tolls, prices and travel times change, so please check before you go. I say where a figure comes from my own trip and where it comes from a guide or a news report.

    The route at a glance

    1. Faisalabad to Islamabad, through the Islamabad toll.
    2. M-1 towards Hassan Abdal (you join the M-1 after the M-2), through the Hassan Abdal interchange toll.
    3. M-15 (Hazara Motorway) to the Mansehra interchange.
    4. Stay on the M-15 to New Balakot City.
    5. Local roads from there to Naran or Shogran.

    From Faisalabad to Naran or Shogran you need about 12 hours. From Islamabad to Shogran it takes about 6 hours.

    Distances from travel guides, not from my odometer: Islamabad to New Balakot is about 175 km, New Balakot to Naran is about 106 km, and Naran to Babusar Top is about 70 km.

    Tolls

    The tolls I paid were the Islamabad toll and the Hassan Abdal interchange toll. After the Mansehra interchange you are on local roads, with no more tolls.

    Toll rates change often. News reports said that from July 2026 a car pays about PKR 1,430 for the full Lahore to Islamabad M-2 and PKR 700 on the M-1. What you pay depends on where you join and leave. I could not find a current M-15 rate, so check the latest rates before you leave. Sources: Profit and ProPakistani.

    Where to stop

    If you are driving from Faisalabad or Lahore, make your first stop at the Bhera rest area. Skip Islamabad, and stop next at the Mansehra rest area.

    At Mansehra, skip the city. Keep going on the M-15 until you reach New Balakot City. From there you can take the city route, which avoids the traffic in Mansehra city. New Balakot is a newer shortcut, and in my experience few people know about it.

    Balakot city is a good place for a break. There are restaurants all the way where you can get a proper meal for breakfast, lunch or dinner, depending on your travel time.

    Fuel stops

    • Bhera rest area
    • Chakri
    • Islamabad
    • Mansehra interchange
    • Balakot city
    • Naran
    • Gilgit, along the Karakoram Highway, if you go further north

    In May 2026 petrol was about PKR 414 a litre. I spent about PKR 35,000 on fuel for the whole trip, from Faisalabad to every place we visited.

    When to leave

    If you are travelling with family, especially with kids, avoid driving at night. I went with my wife and drove in the daytime the whole way.

    If you are going with friends, leave around 1 AM and you will be at your destination by about 12 PM.

    Nothing went wrong on my 2026 trip. My Toyota Vitz, a small Japanese car, handled the whole route without trouble.

    Mobile signal on this route

    • Shogran: full 4G. The hotel Wi-Fi is on 24 hours, but keep your 4G ready in case the Wi-Fi is slow.
    • Siri and Paye: no cellular service.
    • Batakundi and beyond: no network until you reach Chilas or Jaglot.
    • Fairy Meadows: no cellular service. There is a paid wireless PCO that works for about 2 to 3 hours in the evening. Ask your hotel about it.
    • Hunza: on my trips in 2017 and 2021, only SCOM worked. Coverage changes, so check before you go.

    In 2021 we drove further: Faisalabad to Chilas in 23 hours

    In 2021 my group went from Faisalabad to Islamabad, then took the Hazara Motorway to Mansehra, then Mansehra to Naran, Naran over Babusar to Chilas, and from Chilas on to Fairy Meadows. We drove from Faisalabad to Chilas in about 23 hours of driving, in a rented Hiace. I do not recommend doing that in one go.

    Quick answers

    • How long from Faisalabad to Naran or Shogran? About 12 hours.
    • Which tolls? Islamabad and Hassan Abdal, then the M-15 to Mansehra. Check the current rates.
    • Where should I stop? The Bhera rest area first, then the Mansehra rest area, then Balakot.
    • When should I leave? In the daytime with family. Around 1 AM with friends.
    • Is a small car enough? Yes. My Toyota Vitz had no trouble.

    Related: My May 2026 trip to Shogran and Naran · What a northern Pakistan trip costs · Shogran travel guide

    These figures are approximate and based on my own drives in 2021 and May 2026. Tolls and conditions change, so please check before you travel and read my disclaimer. If you drove it recently and something is different, tell me on the contact page.

  • How Much Does a Northern Pakistan Trip Cost? 10 Friends in 2021 vs a Couple in 2026

    Trips: August 2021 (Hunza and Fairy Meadows) and May 2026 (Shogran and Naran) · Last checked: October 2026

    I have done two very different northern Pakistan trips. In August 2021 I went to Hunza and Fairy Meadows for 7 days with friends, a group of 10. In May 2026 I went to Shogran and Naran for 7 nights with my wife. They cost very different amounts, and the gap shows how much has changed. This post puts the real numbers side by side.

    All figures are approximate and in PKR. I did not keep receipts, so I do not have a category-by-category split for either trip. Where a number is my own estimate, I say so.

    The two trips at a glance

    August 2021May 2026
    Who10 friendsMe and my wife
    WhereHunza and Fairy MeadowsShogran, Naran and the road towards Babusar
    Length7 days7 nights
    Started fromFaisalabadFaisalabad
    VehicleRented Toyota Hiace with a driverOur own Toyota Vitz
    Petrol, per litreAbout PKR 170About PKR 414
    Total costAbout PKR 24,000 per person (about PKR 240,000 for the group)About PKR 150,000 for two, including hotels, food and shopping

    The 2021 trip: 10 friends and one Hiace

    We hired a Toyota Hiace with a driver for the whole week. It cost about PKR 8,000 a day, which is about PKR 56,000 for 7 days. Petrol was about PKR 170 a litre.

    Fairy Meadows was not popular yet, so hotels and food there were cheap. We paid about PKR 4,000 for a jeep for 5 people from Raikot to Tato, PKR 1,500 to 2,000 for a horse or a mule, and about PKR 6,000 a night for a hut that all 10 of us had to ourselves. A BBQ piece cost about PKR 1,000.

    Counting everything, the trip cost about PKR 24,000 per person, which is roughly PKR 240,000 for the group. Sharing one vehicle, one hut and the fuel between 10 people is what kept it so low.

    The 2026 trip: two people and our own car

    In May 2026 I went with my wife for 7 nights in our own Toyota Vitz. We started from Faisalabad, stayed in Shogran and Naran, and drove towards Babusar Top, which was still closed by snow.

    Petrol was about PKR 414 a litre. I spent about PKR 35,000 on fuel for the whole trip, from Faisalabad to every place we visited. Everything together, including hotels, food and shopping, came to about PKR 150,000. That is about PKR 21,000 a night for two people.

    Hotels were the biggest cost. A deluxe room at Spruce in Shogran cost PKR 27,000 a night and Cedarwood cost PKR 24,500. In Naran I paid PKR 14,000 a night for 2 nights at Luxus, against its usual PKR 17,500. The season was just starting and the hotel was new, and I asked for a discount and told them I would review the hotel. I explain this in my hotel review.

    Food and jeeps were smaller costs. A proper meal for two with tea cost about PKR 4,000 in Naran and PKR 6,000 to 8,000 at Cedarwood in Shogran. The jeep to Siri and Paye costs about PKR 6,000, and a jeep with a driver to Saif-ul-Malook costs about PKR 5,000.

    How prices changed since 2021

    What2021Today
    Petrol, per litreAbout PKR 170About PKR 414
    Hiace with a driver, per dayAbout PKR 8,000I did not hire one in 2026
    Fairy Meadows jeep, for 5 peopleAbout PKR 4,000PKR 14,000 to 16,000
    Horse or mule from TatoPKR 1,500 to 2,000PKR 3,500 to 4,000
    Fairy Meadows hut, per nightAbout PKR 6,000About PKR 15,000
    BBQ piece at Fairy MeadowsAbout PKR 1,000PKR 2,000
    Local room in ShogranAbout PKR 4,000 (2022, from friends)About PKR 8,000
    The same 10-person, 7-day tripAbout PKR 240,000About PKR 600,000 (my own estimate)

    Most of these prices have gone up two to four times. The Fairy Meadows jeep went up the most, from about PKR 4,000 to PKR 14,000 to 16,000. The PKR 600,000 figure is my own estimate of what the 2021 group trip would cost today, not a quote.

    Why the cost per person is so different

    • Group size. In 2021, one vehicle, one hut and every tank of fuel were shared by 10 people. In 2026, two people carried every room and every litre of fuel.
    • The vehicle. In 2021 we hired a Hiace with a driver. In 2026 we used our own car, which is cheaper for a small group, and we could stop wherever we liked.
    • The hotels. In 2026 I stayed in some of the best hotels in Shogran. In 2021, prices in Fairy Meadows and Hunza were low.
    • The prices. Everything, from petrol to a roti, is more expensive now.

    How to keep a trip like this affordable

    • Go in October. Rates are usually lower than in May, June and July, and there is no crowd.
    • Drive your own car. It costs less than hiring a vehicle for a small group, and you can stop where you like.
    • Share the big costs. A jeep seats 5 people, and a group can share a hut or a hotel room.
    • Choose a local hotel in Shogran. They cost PKR 5,000 to 8,000 a night, against PKR 24,500 to 27,000 at Spruce and Cedarwood. You can bargain, but only by about PKR 500.
    • Eat in Naran. A meal for two is about PKR 4,000, against PKR 6,000 to 8,000 at Cedarwood. I still think one dinner at Cedarwood is worth it.
    • Think about a package for Fairy Meadows. Tourist companies still offer a plan for around PKR 35,000 per person, which is simpler than arranging everything yourself.
    • Check rates at the start of the season. I paid PKR 14,000 instead of PKR 17,500 at a new hotel in Naran in May.

    Quick answers

    • How much did the May 2026 trip cost? About PKR 150,000 for two people for 7 nights, including hotels, food and shopping. About PKR 35,000 of that was fuel.
    • How much did the 2021 trip cost? About PKR 24,000 per person for 10 friends over 7 days.
    • Is October cheaper than May? In my experience, rates in October are lower than in May, June and July.
    • Why is there no full breakdown? I did not keep receipts, so I only give the numbers I am sure about.

    Related: How to reach Fairy Meadows · Shogran travel guide · Shogran, Naran and Babusar Top in May 2026

    These figures are approximate and based on my own trips in August 2021 and May 2026. Prices change, so please check before you travel and read my disclaimer. If you went recently and something is different, tell me on the contact page.

  • How to Reach Fairy Meadows: Jeep Track, Trek, Huts and Costs (2021 vs Today)

    Visited: August 2021 · Current prices checked: October 2026

    I have been to Fairy Meadows once, in August 2021, with a group of 10 friends. We started from Faisalabad in a rented Toyota Hiace with a driver, and Fairy Meadows was part of a 7-day trip that also covered Hunza.

    The jeep track and the trek are still the same, but prices have gone up a lot since then. This guide covers how to get there, what it costs, where to stay, and what I would pack. Today’s prices come from a driver there who I am still in touch with, and they change often.

    Fairy Meadows at a glance: 2021 vs today

    WhatAugust 2021Today
    Jeep from Raikot to Tato (a jeep for 5 people)About PKR 4,000PKR 14,000 to 16,000
    Horse or mule from TatoPKR 1,500 to 2,000PKR 3,500 to 4,000, after bargaining
    Hut, per nightAbout PKR 6,000 (my group of 10 had the whole hut)About PKR 15,000
    BBQ, one leg or chest pieceAbout PKR 1,000PKR 2,000
    One rotiI did not note itPKR 150
    Noodles at Beyal CampI did not note itPKR 500
    CrowdsFew people knew about itPacked in May, June and July
    Package from a tourist companyI did not note itAround PKR 35,000 per person

    Prices vary almost every day now, so treat these as a guide.

    Getting there: parking and the jeep track

    We hired a Toyota Hiace with a driver and drove up from Faisalabad. There is parking for cars at Raikot, before the jeep track, so you can leave your vehicle there easily.

    From there you take a jeep. In 2021 we hired jeeps for 5 people each, and it cost about PKR 4,000. Today the same ride costs PKR 14,000 to 16,000 a jeep, according to a driver I am still in touch with.

    The jeep track is really scary. You will only enjoy the ride if you love adventure. The track is still the same as it was in 2021.

    From Tato to Fairy Meadows: hike or ride

    After the jeep reaches Tato, you can continue on foot, or hire a horse or a mule. In 2021 that cost PKR 1,500 to 2,000. Today it is PKR 3,500 to 4,000, depending on how well you bargain.

    The hike takes about 4 hours in total, with several stops and breaks along the way. It is tiring, so take small steps to save your energy, and keep ORS with you. You will find a midpoint with a canteen where you can get water and snacks.

    If you plan to hike from Tato, take two pairs of shoes. If one pair tears or the sole breaks, you can change into the other.

    Where to stay: a hut at Fairy Meadows

    We stayed in a Greenwood hut. We had the whole hut to ourselves, and all 10 of us fit comfortably, with beds and mattresses. There was also a fire pit inside the hut that works as a heater and keeps the room warm. In 2021 it cost about PKR 6,000 a night. Today it costs about PKR 15,000 a night, according to my contact there.

    In the morning you get hot water at the hotel for only a few hours, so wake up accordingly, take a bath, and get some sunshine. New hotels have been built since 2021, but not too many. Even in the busy months you can still find a hotel.

    Food: order a day before

    At Fairy Meadows you can get daal, sabzi and even BBQ, but you have to tell them a day before. It is expensive. A BBQ leg piece or chest piece costs PKR 2,000 a piece today, and it was about PKR 1,000 in 2021. A single roti costs PKR 150 today.

    What to do at Fairy Meadows

    • Watch the night sky. It is a view you normally never see in a crowded city like Faisalabad or Lahore.
    • Sit by a bonfire. You can buy a bonfire pit with seating. If someone in your group sings or plays the guitar, it makes the night. You may also meet other travellers doing the same, and you can ask if you can sit with them.
    • Start the morning slowly. Wake up for the hot water, enjoy the sunshine, and have some kehwa while you wait for breakfast.

    Beyal Camp

    On the second morning, my friends and I hiked to Beyal Camp. It is about a 1-hour walk from Fairy Meadows, and it is much easier than the hike up from Tato.

    Beyal Camp is for people who do not love crowds and want some peaceful time on their own. There is a small canteen where you can get cooked noodles for PKR 500 today, and chips like Lay’s and biscuits.

    I have Nanga Parbat photos from Fairy Meadows, from Beyal Camp and from the zero point after it.

    No mobile signal: tell your family first

    There is no cellular service and no mobile internet at Fairy Meadows. There is a PCO (public call office) where you can make calls, in the evening between 5 and 7. Ask your hotel for the exact PCO hours.

    Before you start the jeep track, tell your family that you will contact them as soon as you can.

    Best time to go, and crowds

    Go between May and August only. In September it gets closed, because snowy tracks make it impossible to reach.

    In 2021 very few people knew about Fairy Meadows, so it was not crowded. Today May, June and July are fully packed, but you can still get a hotel.

    What the trip cost me

    In 2021 I went with 10 friends for 7 days in Hunza and Fairy Meadows. The rental car with a driver, meals, hotels and everything else came to about PKR 24,000 each.

    It would cost much more today, because petrol prices have doubled and everything is more expensive. If you want to plan it easily, I recommend buying a package from a tourist company. They still offer a Fairy Meadows plan for around PKR 35,000 per person.

    What to pack

    • A padded jacket.
    • Two pairs of shoes, in case you hike from Tato and one pair gets damaged.
    • Common medicines: for constipation and headache, plus ORS or an electrolyte drink. Keep ORS with you on the hike.

    What changed since 2021

    Prices are almost three times higher than in 2021. The jeep track is the same. A few new hotels have been developed, but not too many. Fairy Meadows is also much more crowded in May, June and July.

    Is Fairy Meadows worth it?

    Yes, if you love adventure and want quiet nights under a clear sky. The jeep track is scary, there is no mobile signal, and prices are much higher than they were in 2021, so go prepared.

    These figures are approximate. I visited Fairy Meadows once, in August 2021. Today’s prices come from a driver there who I am still in touch with, and they change often. Please check before you travel and read my disclaimer. If you went recently and something is different, tell me on the contact page.