Tag: northern pakistan

Shogran or Naran? Which One to Pick After 4 Visits (Crowds, Hotels, Food, Weather)

Shogran: first week of October in 2023, 2024 and 2025, and May 2026 · Naran: several visits, most recently May 2026 · Last checked: October 2026

Shogran and Naran are both in the Kaghan side of the mountains, only a drive apart, and most people pick one without knowing much about the other. I have been to Shogran four times and to Naran several times, most recently in May 2026. I prefer Shogran, and this post explains why, who should choose which, and what each costs.

If you like your own company and not crowds, read the Shogran section first. If you want a base for the Babusar road, Batakundi and Lulusar Lake, Naran makes more sense.

Shogran vs Naran at a glance

	Shogran	Naran
Crowds	Quiet and peaceful	Much more crowded in general (empty when I went in May 2026, early in the season)
Best month	October	October for peace, or April and May to escape the heat of the plains
Getting there	About 6 hours from Islamabad. The road from Kiwai is fully developed	On the main highway. About 12 hours from Faisalabad
Hotels, per night	Local hotels PKR 5,000 to 8,000. Spruce PKR 27,000. Cedarwood PKR 24,500 (May 2026)	Luxus PKR 14,000 (usual PKR 17,500) in May 2026
Meal for two with tea	PKR 6,000 to 8,000 at Cedarwood	About PKR 4,000
Things to do	Siri and Paye, Makra Peak, the small bazaar, tea at Cedarwood	Saif-ul-Malook, and the road to Batakundi, Lulusar Lake and Babusar Top
Air	Clean air, less pollution	Not noted

If you want quiet, choose Shogran

If you are an introvert, you will love the peaceful environment in Shogran. Naran is much more crowded. In my experience, Shogran has less crowd, cleaner air and less pollution, and most of the time you enjoy your own company at your hotel with your friends or family.

I travel in October because the rates are usually lower than in May, June and July, and there is no crowd. My friends and I like quiet places, and Shogran in the first week of October is exactly that.

One honest note: Naran was almost empty when I went in May 2026, early in the season. But in general it is far busier than Shogran, especially from April to September.

If you want the Babusar road, choose Naran

Naran is the better base if you want to drive towards Babusar Top. From Naran it is about 70 km and 2 to 3 hours to the top. It is also the gateway to Batakundi and Lulusar Lake. I think the drive from Naran to Babusar Top is the best part of that side of the mountains. The top itself is only for tea, pakoras and a view.

Saif-ul-Malook is also near Naran. I have only been once, and I do not like this lake, because it is easy for everyone to get to. A jeep with a driver costs about PKR 5,000 today.

Cost: where your money goes further

Hotels. Shogran has cheap local hotels at PKR 5,000 to 8,000 a night. The two well-known hotels, Spruce and Cedarwood, cost PKR 27,000 and PKR 24,500 in May 2026. In Naran, Luxus cost me PKR 14,000 against its usual PKR 17,500.
Food. A meal for two with tea is about PKR 4,000 in Naran, against PKR 6,000 to 8,000 at Cedarwood in Shogran.
Activities. The jeep to Siri and Paye costs about PKR 6,000. A jeep to Saif-ul-Malook costs about PKR 5,000.

Weather and the best months

October is the best month for the weather in both places, and the nights are colder. April and May are good if you want to escape the summer heat of cities like Faisalabad and Lahore. Always carry a jacket.

I would avoid Murree and Nathia Gali if you want quiet. In my opinion they are too crowded.

Which one should you pick?

You like quiet and your own company: Shogran, in October.
You are going with family: Shogran has a calm setting, and Cedarwood is a good choice for families.
You are driving on towards Babusar, Batakundi or Lulusar: Naran.
You are on a tight budget: Naran for meals and a local hotel in Shogran for rooms.
You want a bonfire night with friends: Spruce or Pine Park in Shogran.

Quick answers

Is Shogran quieter than Naran? Yes, much quieter in general.
Which is cheaper? Naran for food. Shogran for rooms if you choose a local hotel.
Which is better in October? Shogran. It has the best weather and the fewest people.
Do I need a jeep for Shogran? No. The road from Kiwai is fully developed.

This comparison is based on my own visits. Prices and crowds change, so please check before you travel and read my disclaimer. If you visited recently and something is different, tell me on the contact page.

October 21, 2026

Hunza in 2017 vs 2026: What Changed in Prices, Roads and Crowds

Visited: 2017 and 2021 · 2026 details: from my brother’s trip · Last checked: October 2026

I have been to Hunza twice: in 2017 and in 2021. I did not go in 2026, but my brother did, and he told me about the prices, the roads and the crowds. This post compares what I saw on my trips with what he found in 2026.

If you are planning a trip this year, this is what I would want to know before going. All prices are approximate and in PKR. Where a detail comes from my brother’s 2026 trip, I say so.

Hunza at a glance: then and now

What	Then	Now (2026)
Budget room, per night	About PKR 4,000 (2017)	About PKR 8,000 for friends travelling without family, up to about PKR 45,000
One restaurant meal, per person	I did not note it	About PKR 1,000, with a full meal and tea
Road from Naran towards Babusar	Very rough (around 2020)	Fully developed and clean
Crowds	Quieter	Busier every summer, very crowded in June, July and August
Access and things to see	Fewer attractions, harder access	Easy access, many attractions, easy for families
Places to stay	Fewer options	Many more hotels, plus Airbnb options in Karimabad

The 2026 hotel, food and crowd details come from my brother’s trip.

What changed between 2017 and 2021

My second trip, in 2021, felt different from the first. There were more hotels and more places to stay, and the roads were the biggest change.

More hotels and accommodation options. There was much more to choose from than in 2017.
Better roads. I took the Babusar route in 2021, and the road was fully developed and clean. I did not notice any patches.

The next big changes came between 2021 and 2026: much higher hotel prices and much bigger summer crowds, according to my brother.

Getting there: about 650 km from Islamabad

It is about 650 km one way from Islamabad to Hunza, or to the Khunjerab Pass. That is a long drive, so plan your days around it.

Travelling in your own vehicle still costs less than hired transport, and it gives you freedom. You can stop where you like, and you can stay a night on the way if you want, because you are not bound to a transport company’s schedule.

What a 7-day group trip cost me in 2021

In 2021 I went with friends in a rented Toyota Hiace with a driver. We were a group of 10 and the trip lasted 7 days, covering Hunza and Fairy Meadows.

Counting everything (the vehicle rental, fuel, meals and everything else we spent), the total came to about PKR 24,000 per person. For the whole group, that was roughly PKR 240,000.

Sharing one vehicle and its fuel between 10 people keeps the cost per person low. Hotel prices have gone up a lot since then, so expect a higher total today.

The roads: much better than before

Around 2020, the road from Naran towards Babusar was very rough. When I took the Babusar route in 2021, it was fully developed and clean, with no patches, and it is still fully developed today. The drive is far more comfortable than it used to be.

You may still see construction in the Gilgit part, where the Diamer-Bhasha Dam is being built.

Where to stay: from about PKR 8,000 to PKR 45,000 a night

In 2017, a budget room in Hunza cost me around PKR 4,000 a night. My brother says the range in 2026 is much wider. There has been a lot of hotel development, so you can pick a hotel by your budget and the standard you want, and prices now go up to about PKR 45,000 a night.

If you are travelling with friends and not with family, you can still find a hotel for around PKR 8,000 a night. If you are travelling with family, you will probably want a higher standard, which costs more.

I do not remember hotel names from my own trips. I just visit a few hotels and choose the one with better amenities or a better rate, so I cannot recommend a specific name. What I can tell you is where to look: there are some good Airbnb options in Karimabad, and if you are heading to Khunjerab Pass you can stay around the Sost border area before it.

Food: about PKR 1,000 per person per meal

My brother says a normal restaurant meal in 2026 costs about PKR 1,000 per person. That includes a full meal and tea, and it is more than enough for one person. If you eat three meals a day, plan for about PKR 3,000 per person per day on food.

Crowds: busier every summer

From what I saw in 2017 and 2021, and from what my brother saw in 2026, Hunza gets busier every year. People travel mostly between April and September. Many are now bored of the older tourist spots like Naran and Shogran, so they head further north to Hunza instead.

April and May: no rush. This is the best time if you like it quiet.
June, July and August: too crowded. This is the biggest change for the worse.

The surprise: the route closes by mid-October

Babusar Top closes every year after 15 October, so by mid-October you cannot travel to Hunza via Babusar or Chilas. Snowfall covers the roads fully, and you have to go through Besham instead.

My brother found the road on the Besham side still in bad condition, and the weather around Besham, Chilas and Jaglot dry and hot. If you are travelling in autumn, check the road situation before you leave.

Babusar Top usually reopens around the start or the end of May, depending on the weather. In May 2026 it was still closed by snow when I drove up from Naran, so check before you go.

What got better, and what got worse

Better:

The road from Naran towards Babusar is fully developed.
Access is easy and there are many more attractions.
Families can travel easily and find good spots.
April and May are calm.

Worse:

Hotel prices are much higher than in 2017.
June, July and August are very crowded.
The Besham route is still in bad condition when Babusar closes.

What not to miss

If you only have time for a few things, these are the ones I would not skip:

The Karakoram Highway: the drive itself is part of the trip.
Attabad Lake
Hussaini Bridge
Eagle’s Nest: go at dawn or dusk.

Khunjerab Pass: read this before you go

I went to the Khunjerab border on my first visit to Hunza in 2017. The oxygen level at Khunjerab Pass is low, and you can only stay there for about 10 to 15 minutes at most.

If you have asthma, do not go there. The change in air pressure can also give you a headache, so keep paracetamol with you.

I am not a doctor. If you have any medical condition, talk to your doctor before you plan this part of the trip.

How I would plan Hunza in 2026

Pick your month. April or May for quiet. June to August only if you do not mind the crowds. Do not leave it until mid-October.
Choose your vehicle. Your own vehicle costs less and lets you stop when you want.
Set a hotel budget. Around PKR 8,000 a night for friends travelling together, and more if you want a higher standard or are travelling with family.
Budget for food. About PKR 1,000 per person per meal.
Check the route. Know whether Babusar is open before you leave.
Prepare for Khunjerab. Keep paracetamol with you, plan for only 10 to 15 minutes at the top, and skip it if you have asthma.

Is Hunza worth visiting in 2026?

Yes. If you have not been to Hunza, you should go once in your life. There is more than Murree and Naran ahead. Enjoy the Karakoram Highway, Attabad Lake and Hussaini Bridge, and make time for Eagle’s Nest at dawn or dusk.

These figures are approximate. They are based on my trips to Hunza in 2017 and 2021, and on my brother’s 2026 trip. Prices and road conditions change, so please check before you travel and read my disclaimer. If you went recently and something is different, tell me on the contact page.

October 21, 2026

How Much Does a Northern Pakistan Trip Cost? 10 Friends in 2021 vs a Couple in 2026

Trips: August 2021 (Hunza and Fairy Meadows) and May 2026 (Shogran and Naran) · Last checked: October 2026

I have done two very different northern Pakistan trips. In August 2021 I went to Hunza and Fairy Meadows for 7 days with friends, a group of 10. In May 2026 I went to Shogran and Naran for 7 nights with my wife. They cost very different amounts, and the gap shows how much has changed. This post puts the real numbers side by side.

All figures are approximate and in PKR. I did not keep receipts, so I do not have a category-by-category split for either trip. Where a number is my own estimate, I say so.

The two trips at a glance

	August 2021	May 2026
Who	10 friends	Me and my wife
Where	Hunza and Fairy Meadows	Shogran, Naran and the road towards Babusar
Length	7 days	7 nights
Started from	Faisalabad	Faisalabad
Vehicle	Rented Toyota Hiace with a driver	Our own Toyota Vitz
Petrol, per litre	About PKR 170	About PKR 414
Total cost	About PKR 24,000 per person (about PKR 240,000 for the group)	About PKR 150,000 for two, including hotels, food and shopping

The 2021 trip: 10 friends and one Hiace

We hired a Toyota Hiace with a driver for the whole week. It cost about PKR 8,000 a day, which is about PKR 56,000 for 7 days. Petrol was about PKR 170 a litre.

Fairy Meadows was not popular yet, so hotels and food there were cheap. We paid about PKR 4,000 for a jeep for 5 people from Raikot to Tato, PKR 1,500 to 2,000 for a horse or a mule, and about PKR 6,000 a night for a hut that all 10 of us had to ourselves. A BBQ piece cost about PKR 1,000.

Counting everything, the trip cost about PKR 24,000 per person, which is roughly PKR 240,000 for the group. Sharing one vehicle, one hut and the fuel between 10 people is what kept it so low.

The 2026 trip: two people and our own car

In May 2026 I went with my wife for 7 nights in our own Toyota Vitz. We started from Faisalabad, stayed in Shogran and Naran, and drove towards Babusar Top, which was still closed by snow.

Petrol was about PKR 414 a litre. I spent about PKR 35,000 on fuel for the whole trip, from Faisalabad to every place we visited. Everything together, including hotels, food and shopping, came to about PKR 150,000. That is about PKR 21,000 a night for two people.

Hotels were the biggest cost. A deluxe room at Spruce in Shogran cost PKR 27,000 a night and Cedarwood cost PKR 24,500. In Naran I paid PKR 14,000 a night for 2 nights at Luxus, against its usual PKR 17,500. The season was just starting and the hotel was new, and I asked for a discount and told them I would review the hotel. I explain this in my hotel review.

Food and jeeps were smaller costs. A proper meal for two with tea cost about PKR 4,000 in Naran and PKR 6,000 to 8,000 at Cedarwood in Shogran. The jeep to Siri and Paye costs about PKR 6,000, and a jeep with a driver to Saif-ul-Malook costs about PKR 5,000.

How prices changed since 2021

What	2021	Today
Petrol, per litre	About PKR 170	About PKR 414
Hiace with a driver, per day	About PKR 8,000	I did not hire one in 2026
Fairy Meadows jeep, for 5 people	About PKR 4,000	PKR 14,000 to 16,000
Horse or mule from Tato	PKR 1,500 to 2,000	PKR 3,500 to 4,000
Fairy Meadows hut, per night	About PKR 6,000	About PKR 15,000
BBQ piece at Fairy Meadows	About PKR 1,000	PKR 2,000
Local room in Shogran	About PKR 4,000 (2022, from friends)	About PKR 8,000
The same 10-person, 7-day trip	About PKR 240,000	About PKR 600,000 (my own estimate)

Most of these prices have gone up two to four times. The Fairy Meadows jeep went up the most, from about PKR 4,000 to PKR 14,000 to 16,000. The PKR 600,000 figure is my own estimate of what the 2021 group trip would cost today, not a quote.

Why the cost per person is so different

Group size. In 2021, one vehicle, one hut and every tank of fuel were shared by 10 people. In 2026, two people carried every room and every litre of fuel.
The vehicle. In 2021 we hired a Hiace with a driver. In 2026 we used our own car, which is cheaper for a small group, and we could stop wherever we liked.
The hotels. In 2026 I stayed in some of the best hotels in Shogran. In 2021, prices in Fairy Meadows and Hunza were low.
The prices. Everything, from petrol to a roti, is more expensive now.

How to keep a trip like this affordable

Go in October. Rates are usually lower than in May, June and July, and there is no crowd.
Drive your own car. It costs less than hiring a vehicle for a small group, and you can stop where you like.
Share the big costs. A jeep seats 5 people, and a group can share a hut or a hotel room.
Choose a local hotel in Shogran. They cost PKR 5,000 to 8,000 a night, against PKR 24,500 to 27,000 at Spruce and Cedarwood. You can bargain, but only by about PKR 500.
Eat in Naran. A meal for two is about PKR 4,000, against PKR 6,000 to 8,000 at Cedarwood. I still think one dinner at Cedarwood is worth it.
Think about a package for Fairy Meadows. Tourist companies still offer a plan for around PKR 35,000 per person, which is simpler than arranging everything yourself.
Check rates at the start of the season. I paid PKR 14,000 instead of PKR 17,500 at a new hotel in Naran in May.

Quick answers

How much did the May 2026 trip cost? About PKR 150,000 for two people for 7 nights, including hotels, food and shopping. About PKR 35,000 of that was fuel.
How much did the 2021 trip cost? About PKR 24,000 per person for 10 friends over 7 days.
Is October cheaper than May? In my experience, rates in October are lower than in May, June and July.
Why is there no full breakdown? I did not keep receipts, so I only give the numbers I am sure about.

These figures are approximate and based on my own trips in August 2021 and May 2026. Prices change, so please check before you travel and read my disclaimer. If you went recently and something is different, tell me on the contact page.

October 20, 2026

Shogran, Naran and Babusar Top in May 2026: Road, Hotels, Food and Costs

Visited: May 2026 · Also: Shogran for the past 4 years, Babusar Top in 2021, Batakundi and Lulusar in 2021, 2024 and 2025 · Last checked: October 2026

In May 2026 I spent 7 nights in Shogran and Naran with my wife, in our own car, a Toyota Vitz, and drove towards Babusar Top. I have been visiting Shogran for the past four years, and I drove over Babusar in 2021, so I know this route well. This post covers the roads, the hotels, the food, what I spent, and when Babusar Top opens and closes.

Disclosure: I paid for all my stays. At Luxus Naran I asked for a discount and told them I would review the hotel, so I paid PKR 14,000 a night instead of the usual PKR 17,500. The other hotels in this post gave me no discount.

What the May 2026 trip cost me

We were two people, we travelled for 7 nights, and we started from Faisalabad. I spent about PKR 35,000 on fuel, at peak fuel prices. Everything together, including hotels, food and shopping, came to about PKR 150,000.

Hotel rates were lower than usual because the season was just starting, and a new Luxus hotel had just opened in Naran. Expect to pay more in the peak months.

The road: then and now

When I saw it around 2020, the road to Naran was still under development. Today it is very smooth. It is clean, and it is a proper highway for travel.

In May 2026 everything was super smooth, but the road had not been properly cleared because of snow. My Toyota Vitz, a small Japanese car, handled the drive smoothly and did not struggle anywhere.

Shogran: you can drive up now

I have visited Shogran for the past four years. My 2026 visit was in May, because I went with my wife. Otherwise, October is likely the best month to go, with cosy weather, especially if you are with friends.

The road from Kiwai to Shogran has been developed for the past two years, so you can take your own car now. You do not need a jeep to reach Shogran.

For Siri Paye, I always stay at Shogran and take a jeep from there the next morning. Some people used to park at Kiwai and take a jeep from there. I have never done that, and I do not think many people park there anymore, as of 2026.

Where I stayed in May 2026, and what it cost

Hotel	Place	Per night (May 2026)	What I noticed
Spruce	Shogran	PKR 27,000 (deluxe room)	Modern rooms. Each room has its own attached balcony.
Cedarwood	Shogran	PKR 24,500	Older furniture and interior. No separate attached balcony.
Luxus	Naran	PKR 14,000 (usual PKR 17,500)	My favourite place to stay.

Spruce had the more modern rooms, and each room had its own balcony. Cedarwood felt older, with old furniture and no separate balcony. Luxus Naran is my favourite place to stay.

If I had to choose one place to sleep in Shogran, I would choose Spruce.

Where to eat in Shogran and Naran

Shogran: Spruce has its own kitchen, but for dinner I prefer to go to Cedarwood. Its restaurant has breathtaking views. If you are not staying there, they charge PKR 1,000 per person extra to visit. A proper meal with tea for two people costs about PKR 6,000 to 8,000. It is expensive, but worth it. You can also just go in the evening for tea.

Naran: for desi food, Moon Restaurant and New Punjab Hotel are good choices. A proper meal for two people, including tea, costs about PKR 4,000.

Naran and Saif-ul-Malook

Naran in May was peaceful. It was empty, hotels were available, and the weather was calm, with no crowd.

I have been to Saif-ul-Malook only once in my life, and I do not like this lake, because it is easy for everyone to get to. If you want to go, a jeep with a driver costs about PKR 5,000 today.

Batakundi and Lulusar Lake: where to stop

Batakundi: there is no special sight to stop for, and I never stay there. The hotels in Batakundi do not have proper electricity: you get a single bulb at night and low voltage. I would not book a room there, because you will not find peace at that place. It is only somewhere to take a break on the way.

The Adventurers Resort & Restaurant: in Burawai, right after Batakundi on the way to Lulusar Lake, you can stop for coffee or tea. It is new, and most people who have not travelled beyond Naran since 2023 do not know about it. It is expensive. I had coffee and fries, and I have stopped there many times. I would not book a room there, because there is nothing around it and it looks scary at night. You can check their menu on their Google Maps listing.

Lulusar Lake: there is a restaurant with a lake view, and toilets are available. It serves breakfast and lunch, and I am not sure whether it opens at night. For breakfast you can get eggs in different styles with paratha or roti. For lunch or dinner you can get chicken karahi, daal varieties and sabzi, served with roti. From Lulusar it takes about 45 minutes to an hour to reach Babusar Top.

Babusar Top in May: still closed

I knew Babusar Top was closed before I left. I still wanted to enjoy the long drive, so I drove from Naran towards Babusar. The road was not fully open because of snow, and I could not reach the top.

Only the drive to Babusar Top is mesmerizing for me, not the top itself. Next time, whether I go will depend on my mood.

It is about 70 km from Naran to Babusar Top, and it takes 2 to 3 hours.

What Babusar Top is like (my 2021 visit)

You can easily stay for half an hour. There are views of valleys and mountains far away, and there is not much else to do. Have a cup of tea or coffee, eat some pakoras, and enjoy the view.

When does Babusar Top open and close?

Closes: every year, after 15 October.
Opens: around the start or the end of May, depending on the weather.

In May 2026 it was still closed, so do not count on the first days of May.

I check the road status on social media before I leave. TikTok is the best for these updates, and I prefer watching Zunair Kamboh’s updates.

How we went in 2021: Faisalabad to Chilas

In 2021 my group went from Faisalabad to Islamabad, then took the Hazara Motorway to Mansehra, then Mansehra to Naran, Naran to Babusar, Babusar to Chilas, and from Chilas on to Fairy Meadows.

We drove from Faisalabad to Chilas in about 23 hours of driving, in a rented Hiace. I do not recommend doing that in one go.

Fuel, signal and what to pack

Petrol stations on the way: Bhera rest area, Chakri, Islamabad, Mansehra interchange and Balakot city. Naran also has fuel stations. Gilgit has them too, on the Karakoram Highway.

Mobile signal: there is no network at Batakundi and beyond, until you reach Chilas or Jaglot. In Hunza, SCOM was the only SIM that worked on my trips in 2017 and 2021. You can recharge it with Nayapay or at local mobile shops. Coverage changes, so check before you go.

What to pack: a jacket is a must if you travel between October and May.

Is this drive worth it?

Yes. The road is now smooth and comfortable, and you can drive to Shogran in your own car. Naran was quiet in May, and the drive from Naran towards Babusar Top is the best part. The top itself is only for tea, pakoras and a view, so check the road status before you leave, because Babusar Top was still closed by snow in May 2026.

These figures are approximate and based on my May 2026 trip, my visits to Shogran over the past four years, and my 2021 trip over Babusar. Prices and road conditions change, so please check before you travel and read my disclaimer. If you went recently and something is different, tell me on the contact page.

October 20, 2026

How to Reach Fairy Meadows: Jeep Track, Trek, Huts and Costs (2021 vs Today)

Visited: August 2021 · Current prices checked: October 2026

I have been to Fairy Meadows once, in August 2021, with a group of 10 friends. We started from Faisalabad in a rented Toyota Hiace with a driver, and Fairy Meadows was part of a 7-day trip that also covered Hunza.

The jeep track and the trek are still the same, but prices have gone up a lot since then. This guide covers how to get there, what it costs, where to stay, and what I would pack. Today’s prices come from a driver there who I am still in touch with, and they change often.

Fairy Meadows at a glance: 2021 vs today

What	August 2021	Today
Jeep from Raikot to Tato (a jeep for 5 people)	About PKR 4,000	PKR 14,000 to 16,000
Horse or mule from Tato	PKR 1,500 to 2,000	PKR 3,500 to 4,000, after bargaining
Hut, per night	About PKR 6,000 (my group of 10 had the whole hut)	About PKR 15,000
BBQ, one leg or chest piece	About PKR 1,000	PKR 2,000
One roti	I did not note it	PKR 150
Noodles at Beyal Camp	I did not note it	PKR 500
Crowds	Few people knew about it	Packed in May, June and July
Package from a tourist company	I did not note it	Around PKR 35,000 per person

Prices vary almost every day now, so treat these as a guide.

Getting there: parking and the jeep track

We hired a Toyota Hiace with a driver and drove up from Faisalabad. There is parking for cars at Raikot, before the jeep track, so you can leave your vehicle there easily.

From there you take a jeep. In 2021 we hired jeeps for 5 people each, and it cost about PKR 4,000. Today the same ride costs PKR 14,000 to 16,000 a jeep, according to a driver I am still in touch with.

The jeep track is really scary. You will only enjoy the ride if you love adventure. The track is still the same as it was in 2021.

From Tato to Fairy Meadows: hike or ride

After the jeep reaches Tato, you can continue on foot, or hire a horse or a mule. In 2021 that cost PKR 1,500 to 2,000. Today it is PKR 3,500 to 4,000, depending on how well you bargain.

The hike takes about 4 hours in total, with several stops and breaks along the way. It is tiring, so take small steps to save your energy, and keep ORS with you. You will find a midpoint with a canteen where you can get water and snacks.

If you plan to hike from Tato, take two pairs of shoes. If one pair tears or the sole breaks, you can change into the other.

Where to stay: a hut at Fairy Meadows

We stayed in a Greenwood hut. We had the whole hut to ourselves, and all 10 of us fit comfortably, with beds and mattresses. There was also a fire pit inside the hut that works as a heater and keeps the room warm. In 2021 it cost about PKR 6,000 a night. Today it costs about PKR 15,000 a night, according to my contact there.

In the morning you get hot water at the hotel for only a few hours, so wake up accordingly, take a bath, and get some sunshine. New hotels have been built since 2021, but not too many. Even in the busy months you can still find a hotel.

Food: order a day before

At Fairy Meadows you can get daal, sabzi and even BBQ, but you have to tell them a day before. It is expensive. A BBQ leg piece or chest piece costs PKR 2,000 a piece today, and it was about PKR 1,000 in 2021. A single roti costs PKR 150 today.

What to do at Fairy Meadows

Watch the night sky. It is a view you normally never see in a crowded city like Faisalabad or Lahore.
Sit by a bonfire. You can buy a bonfire pit with seating. If someone in your group sings or plays the guitar, it makes the night. You may also meet other travellers doing the same, and you can ask if you can sit with them.
Start the morning slowly. Wake up for the hot water, enjoy the sunshine, and have some kehwa while you wait for breakfast.

Beyal Camp

On the second morning, my friends and I hiked to Beyal Camp. It is about a 1-hour walk from Fairy Meadows, and it is much easier than the hike up from Tato.

Beyal Camp is for people who do not love crowds and want some peaceful time on their own. There is a small canteen where you can get cooked noodles for PKR 500 today, and chips like Lay’s and biscuits.

I have Nanga Parbat photos from Fairy Meadows, from Beyal Camp and from the zero point after it.

No mobile signal: tell your family first

There is no cellular service and no mobile internet at Fairy Meadows. There is a PCO (public call office) where you can make calls, in the evening between 5 and 7. Ask your hotel for the exact PCO hours.

Before you start the jeep track, tell your family that you will contact them as soon as you can.

Best time to go, and crowds

Go between May and August only. In September it gets closed, because snowy tracks make it impossible to reach.

In 2021 very few people knew about Fairy Meadows, so it was not crowded. Today May, June and July are fully packed, but you can still get a hotel.

What the trip cost me

In 2021 I went with 10 friends for 7 days in Hunza and Fairy Meadows. The rental car with a driver, meals, hotels and everything else came to about PKR 24,000 each.

It would cost much more today, because petrol prices have doubled and everything is more expensive. If you want to plan it easily, I recommend buying a package from a tourist company. They still offer a Fairy Meadows plan for around PKR 35,000 per person.

What to pack

A padded jacket.
Two pairs of shoes, in case you hike from Tato and one pair gets damaged.
Common medicines: for constipation and headache, plus ORS or an electrolyte drink. Keep ORS with you on the hike.

What changed since 2021

Prices are almost three times higher than in 2021. The jeep track is the same. A few new hotels have been developed, but not too many. Fairy Meadows is also much more crowded in May, June and July.

Is Fairy Meadows worth it?

Yes, if you love adventure and want quiet nights under a clear sky. The jeep track is scary, there is no mobile signal, and prices are much higher than they were in 2021, so go prepared.

These figures are approximate. I visited Fairy Meadows once, in August 2021. Today’s prices come from a driver there who I am still in touch with, and they change often. Please check before you travel and read my disclaimer. If you went recently and something is different, tell me on the contact page.

October 20, 2026