Visited: May 2026 · Also: Shogran for the past 4 years, Babusar Top in 2021, Batakundi and Lulusar in 2021, 2024 and 2025 · Last checked: October 2026
In May 2026 I spent 7 nights in Shogran and Naran with my wife, in our own car, a Toyota Vitz, and drove towards Babusar Top. I have been visiting Shogran for the past four years, and I drove over Babusar in 2021, so I know this route well. This post covers the roads, the hotels, the food, what I spent, and when Babusar Top opens and closes.
Disclosure: I paid for all my stays. At Luxus Naran I asked for a discount and told them I would review the hotel, so I paid PKR 14,000 a night instead of the usual PKR 17,500. The other hotels in this post gave me no discount.
What the May 2026 trip cost me
We were two people, we travelled for 7 nights, and we started from Faisalabad. I spent about PKR 35,000 on fuel, at peak fuel prices. Everything together, including hotels, food and shopping, came to about PKR 150,000.
Hotel rates were lower than usual because the season was just starting, and a new Luxus hotel had just opened in Naran. Expect to pay more in the peak months.
The road: then and now
When I saw it around 2020, the road to Naran was still under development. Today it is very smooth. It is clean, and it is a proper highway for travel.
In May 2026 everything was super smooth, but the road had not been properly cleared because of snow. My Toyota Vitz, a small Japanese car, handled the drive smoothly and did not struggle anywhere.
Shogran: you can drive up now
I have visited Shogran for the past four years. My 2026 visit was in May, because I went with my wife. Otherwise, October is likely the best month to go, with cosy weather, especially if you are with friends.
The road from Kiwai to Shogran has been developed for the past two years, so you can take your own car now. You do not need a jeep to reach Shogran.
For Siri Paye, I always stay at Shogran and take a jeep from there the next morning. Some people used to park at Kiwai and take a jeep from there. I have never done that, and I do not think many people park there anymore, as of 2026.
Where I stayed in May 2026, and what it cost
| Hotel | Place | Per night (May 2026) | What I noticed |
|---|---|---|---|
| Spruce | Shogran | PKR 27,000 (deluxe room) | Modern rooms. Each room has its own attached balcony. |
| Cedarwood | Shogran | PKR 24,500 | Older furniture and interior. No separate attached balcony. |
| Luxus | Naran | PKR 14,000 (usual PKR 17,500) | My favourite place to stay. |
Spruce had the more modern rooms, and each room had its own balcony. Cedarwood felt older, with old furniture and no separate balcony. Luxus Naran is my favourite place to stay.
If I had to choose one place to sleep in Shogran, I would choose Spruce.
Where to eat in Shogran and Naran
Shogran: Spruce has its own kitchen, but for dinner I prefer to go to Cedarwood. Its restaurant has breathtaking views. If you are not staying there, they charge PKR 1,000 per person extra to visit. A proper meal with tea for two people costs about PKR 6,000 to 8,000. It is expensive, but worth it. You can also just go in the evening for tea.
Naran: for desi food, Moon Restaurant and New Punjab Hotel are good choices. A proper meal for two people, including tea, costs about PKR 4,000.
Naran and Saif-ul-Malook
Naran in May was peaceful. It was empty, hotels were available, and the weather was calm, with no crowd.
I have been to Saif-ul-Malook only once in my life, and I do not like this lake, because it is easy for everyone to get to. If you want to go, a jeep with a driver costs about PKR 5,000 today.
Batakundi and Lulusar Lake: where to stop
Batakundi: there is no special sight to stop for, and I never stay there. The hotels in Batakundi do not have proper electricity: you get a single bulb at night and low voltage. I would not book a room there, because you will not find peace at that place. It is only somewhere to take a break on the way.
The Adventurers Resort & Restaurant: in Burawai, right after Batakundi on the way to Lulusar Lake, you can stop for coffee or tea. It is new, and most people who have not travelled beyond Naran since 2023 do not know about it. It is expensive. I had coffee and fries, and I have stopped there many times. I would not book a room there, because there is nothing around it and it looks scary at night. You can check their menu on their Google Maps listing.
Lulusar Lake: there is a restaurant with a lake view, and toilets are available. It serves breakfast and lunch, and I am not sure whether it opens at night. For breakfast you can get eggs in different styles with paratha or roti. For lunch or dinner you can get chicken karahi, daal varieties and sabzi, served with roti. From Lulusar it takes about 45 minutes to an hour to reach Babusar Top.
Babusar Top in May: still closed
I knew Babusar Top was closed before I left. I still wanted to enjoy the long drive, so I drove from Naran towards Babusar. The road was not fully open because of snow, and I could not reach the top.
Only the drive to Babusar Top is mesmerizing for me, not the top itself. Next time, whether I go will depend on my mood.
It is about 70 km from Naran to Babusar Top, and it takes 2 to 3 hours.
What Babusar Top is like (my 2021 visit)
You can easily stay for half an hour. There are views of valleys and mountains far away, and there is not much else to do. Have a cup of tea or coffee, eat some pakoras, and enjoy the view.
When does Babusar Top open and close?
- Closes: every year, after 15 October.
- Opens: around the start or the end of May, depending on the weather.
In May 2026 it was still closed, so do not count on the first days of May.
I check the road status on social media before I leave. TikTok is the best for these updates, and I prefer watching Zunair Kamboh’s updates.
How we went in 2021: Faisalabad to Chilas
In 2021 my group went from Faisalabad to Islamabad, then took the Hazara Motorway to Mansehra, then Mansehra to Naran, Naran to Babusar, Babusar to Chilas, and from Chilas on to Fairy Meadows.
We drove from Faisalabad to Chilas in about 23 hours of driving, in a rented Hiace. I do not recommend doing that in one go.
Fuel, signal and what to pack
Petrol stations on the way: Bhera rest area, Chakri, Islamabad, Mansehra interchange and Balakot city. Naran also has fuel stations. Gilgit has them too, on the Karakoram Highway.
Mobile signal: there is no network at Batakundi and beyond, until you reach Chilas or Jaglot. In Hunza, SCOM was the only SIM that worked on my trips in 2017 and 2021. You can recharge it with Nayapay or at local mobile shops. Coverage changes, so check before you go.
What to pack: a jacket is a must if you travel between October and May.
Is this drive worth it?
Yes. The road is now smooth and comfortable, and you can drive to Shogran in your own car. Naran was quiet in May, and the drive from Naran towards Babusar Top is the best part. The top itself is only for tea, pakoras and a view, so check the road status before you leave, because Babusar Top was still closed by snow in May 2026.
Related: How to reach Fairy Meadows · Shogran travel guide
These figures are approximate and based on my May 2026 trip, my visits to Shogran over the past four years, and my 2021 trip over Babusar. Prices and road conditions change, so please check before you travel and read my disclaimer. If you went recently and something is different, tell me on the contact page.
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